April 02, 2024 - Halifax to Toronto to Madrid to Granada (Cortijo del Marques)
It felt like we had travelled a long time….in a way we had….but there was oodles and oodles to time in the airport lounges. A great way to whittle away some pre-vacation time! Our last lounge was through Dragon Pass in Madrid. Unfortunately by this time I was pretty tired…not even a welcome Cava for me. It was all very good to look at ….even appetizing tapas for lunch! Instead, I fell asleep in my chair, lol. The lounge experience makes travelling so very much better!
So all went as planned until our car rental informed us it would no longer be an option to return the car in the city of Toledo as that agency had closed. At least we know. Not sure how that will effect our plans or what we will ask of from Avis. If we take the car to Toledo it will be parked for 3 days. If we drop it off at Madrid airport early then we have to find our way back to Toledo, or keep it and then return it to the airport days later. Ideally would it be fair for Avis to deduct 3 days car rental??? Small problems in a big world, lol.
Our ‘room(s)’ is huge with a desk for Norm and a warm blanket for me, beautiful views of fields, nature and the white-capped Sierra Nevada mountains. No real need to set the alarm, with hundreds of swallows, morning doves and other singing birds to serenade us awake. After all we don’t want to miss out on our first Spanish breakfast!
We arrived at the Cortijo around 7 pm - ish, really tired, really wanting relax time soaking in the claw-footed bathtub…. but decided to have a glass of wine and a light supper of Manchego cheese and chorizo in the ‘private’ terrace area. A wonderful start to our vacation!
April 03, 2024 - Cortijo del Marques, north of Granada
"Spanish Sunshine and Siestas!"
We eat dinner early here at 8pm. But rather than sit down right away we enjoyed sipping our Cava listening to the familiar tunes of flamenco music by the fire. So special! My meal was spectacular, starting off with an artichoke purée stuffed inside a crisp cannoli shell; followed by creamy mushrooms with Spanish paprika and fresh herbs; main course was a rich and creamy spring risotto. Dessert …almond cake with yogurt ice cream. All can say is it was absolutely fantastic…I ate it all except for a small portion donated to Norm…I could feel his envious gaze….to go with his homemade meatballs! What a meal!!!
Not sure what lies ahead for today.
It’s moving day….not far, about an hour away. We can check in as early as 1pm without special permission…but we also have car rental issues to deal with on the way.
Yesterday afternoon we took a drive out in the countryside. Lots of gently rolling green hills, newly tilled brown fields and olive trees. We drove through the pretty landscape until the area flattened out and became boring, it was time to return. We decided a bottle of Alberino would be just the perfect dinner wine to be opened early as the day’s heat lifted off the old stones and we sat comfortably in the patio chairs. The couple next to us asked if we were from the States? Imagine, lol!! We talked a little about travel until the sun was setting and the air chilled our wine. Time to head inside by the fire and listen to the familiar flamenco songs playing in the background.
Dinner was good but couldn’t match the previous night, imo. Norm was very happy with his Iberian ham although found it a little on the salty side. Normal for us to be overly sensitized to salt as we use little of it.
Hopefully I will get to say goodbye to Romeo before I go! Romeo??? Another story for another day.
So we turned our focus to dinner. We dined on fresh asparagus spears with a poached egg and cheese sauce, followed by a delicious cauliflower ‘steak’ in a thick tomato carrot sauce and oriental chicken for Norm. Dessert was chocolate molten cake…yum!
Because we were the only ones there we got to know Simon, the everything guy…check in, chef, cleaning…. hired for the summer from England. Simon once owned a bed and breakfast, called The Lemon Tree, in a neighbouring province He sold his place a few years ago and came to work here in Granada Province at The Lemon Tree Resort, aka El Amparo. From one lemon tree to another. We talked about Brexit and how that all changed things for many British travellers who owned property elsewhere. An interesting discussion.
We also heard talk of a strong wind blowing in from Africa bringing with it fine swirling Saharan sand. My weather app said nothing, Norm’s suggested the possibility of strong winds. The night was quiet, a few dogs barking in the distance as we drifted off to sleep. Then it started …like being caught up in a whirlwind…doors banging, windows clanging, the wind howling.
We woke up to the effects of a Calima, a Spanish dust/sandstorm…..grey haze. This haze may last for days. The strong Spring sun is really trying to break through these dust clouds but with no effect. Of course Norm slept through most of all this.
Now to Romeo. You met Romeo in Norm’s last blog, you may remember. A really handsome guy with an eye for the ladies. But our time had come to an end at Cortijo del Marques and we had to part ways. Now here at El Amparo, my eyes have wandered again. Sorry Norm, but oh the eye candy!!! Ahhh Rocky….ohhh my heart! Rocky, a little rough around the edges, was a man of the streets before he came to own big time real estate. From rags to riches. But he’s not alone, there are three other gorgeous irresistible playboys here as well…often found lounging at the pool or likely sprawled out in a comfy chair. So while you are working on the blog Norm…..cats will play!
Not sure what the rest of today will bring…probably not sunshine. But some days you just have to make your own sunshine!
The Playboy Estate….and our meal last night…
Come on inside, the gate is open….
"Calima Conundrum…what to do?"
Calima, Calima, Calima……won’t you go away??? It’s a little brighter today, a little less hazy, the air not as noticeably gritty. You can feel the warmth of the sun searing through the hazy curtain, trying to part the curtains but with no luck.
We debated where to stay during these last three days here in Andalusia. Return to two prior places - one being Casa Oleo where you also stayed; the other, Cortijo la Haza. Instead we chose this one, El Amparo, new to us….and happy that it worked out well. Wide open spaces, dinner possible most nights but not Sunday, beautiful countryside views, sunsets, and the charm of a goat farm right next door.
Another bonus is there are no stairs for us to have to climb. My favourite spot on the property is a little alcove with comfy pillows and a thick mattress overlooking a lemon tree. The smell of the blossoms is intoxicating. A great place for a snooze. Norm came along eventually then there were two down for a snooze. However Nick, the concerned owner of Amparo, informed me again that I really shouldn’t be out in this ‘weather’. I know….But, but it’s so hard to stay inside! Luckily no adverse effects have showed up. The Calima is like this smoky filter blurring detail at a distance, blurring beauty. In 2022 the dusty film was much worse and orange in colour!
Late afternoon we took a drive into a larger nearby town, Alhama de Granada. Scored a dream parking spot so off we went checking out the town. Really interesting streets lined with a pebble design in the old quarter. We returned home for a short time before heading out again for dinner. Simon had Sun night off.
Simon recommended a steakhouse restaurant that was new to him but got great reviews. It was a mixed experience for us. Trouble started when we arrived claiming our 0800 reservation… which they couldn’t find. No matter really…at this point no one else was there! So why not just seat us? A few other issues.. No one spoke English. The menu was digi-coded only. And on and on. But on the positive side there were a number of extras, like ‘freebies’ included…olives, cheese bits, before and after drinks. Norm chose a variety of croquette balls and a steak. For me, rice and veggies. Dessert was amazing …3 layers of chocolate.
Norm left a little disappointed with the whole experience, and with visions of superior steaks at Matapalo Supper Club in Costa Rica dancing in his head!
April 08, 2024 - El Amparo, Alhama de Granada to Cordoba
Up on the terrace this morning, as high as the birds fly, cool wind in my hair…looking out in the distance, the rough clay tiled roofs of Cordoba are everywhere.
Looking way down I see the typical Spanish courtyard style architecture…rooms facing inwards to a central courtyard. In early morning the temperature was 8 degrees but it will be rising to about 20 later. I was told we are going to Cordoba at a perfect time…as in summer the temperatures are some of the hottest in Spain.
Our drive to Cordoba was filled with wild flower stops. Who can say no to a man who wants to photo beautiful wild flowers? Especially on his birthday!
Along the way we encountered a mama stork and her newborn in her
nest. No photo here, but through Norm’s camera we will be able to take a close
look. While Norm didn’t get a Grand baby born on his birthday he did get a
visit from the stork!
We originally thought we would pull up at 2ish, but instead we arrived at about 5:15. Of course there was the 45 minute
panic standing on a street corner in Cordoba where I discovered my phone was
missing. Back to the parking garage 3 times, last time with a flashlight Norm
found it… wedged between the seats. Yay!!!!! Then there was the exhaustive
detour through the narrow medina-like streets of Cordoba to find our hotel.
Easy to make a wrong turn. But with aching knees and a bad hip we are both
struggling at times over rough cobblestones and even the slightest inclines or
declines. Let alone being lost. So frustrating! But we found it
eventually.
We checked into our hotel, up the elevator to our Moroccan
influenced room where two small bottles of Cava and two pieces of an almond
torte were awaiting! Happy Birthday Norm! So kind!
Dinner was very
special for Norm! A wonderful way to start his 8th decade! It was right around
the corner with great ambience, good service, background flamenco music, and
seafood paella for one in the pan! (The restaurant was picked by the hotel.)
I hope his birthday was very special, he deserves it…and I think it was!
How could it be 8:15 am already? Such a luxury to sleep until your body tells you, time to wake! Another sunny day. Up on the terrace, the skyline above Cordoba’s tiled roofs was a super highway for the many flocks of birds. Other than that….quiet…so quiet. There are few cars in the old sections of Cordoba.
Since the hotel led us to a very appealing restaurant for Norm’s birthday we sought their advice again for a second time. Quickly they responded, Regardera. We researched it, walked by it and determined it was not really for us. The ambience not exactly what we wanted even though the food was reputed to be wonderful and creative. But we didn’t cancel the reservation and guess where we ended up?
Turned out to be an unexpectedly pleasant experience! I had quite a number of choices with the menu…I chose a warm asparagus salad. The original version we saw later was a spectacular sight with a large Serrano ham ‘rose’ on top of the greens and asparagus. I had few ideas to add to the salad to make it my own. Definitely going to reinvent this one. I wish had of ordered their lemon dessert….it was something else! A whole lemon on top of mousse is what it looked like. But you tapped it with a spoon and creamy goodness exploded. It was not a lemon at all. Food to play with and to eat, what’s not to love. I had a very delicious silken dense chocolate cake with Madagascar vanilla ice cream. I tapped on the cake…no magic happened, lol! Damn that chocolate addiction!
Yesterday’s walk around produced lots of photos. We will have to return to the Mesquite, once a mosque now a cathedral. Do more walks in the Medina like pedestrian friendly streets catching glimpses where we can of the secret gardens of the hidden inner courtyards of Cordoba. Just before dinner we climbed the stairs again to the terrace….it was surprisingly hot up there. The streets/our hotel shockingly cool …just the way master Arab architects/planners would have designed them so many years ago.
Last morning in Cordoba …it’s moving day. So glad we made the decision to stay 3 nights at this delightful little hotel! It’s a high of 25 degrees here and the sun is shining!
Viva Espana!
Floors patterned like carpets. Our hotel and its courtyard is so cute and welcoming it captures lots of attention as people pass by. We did get a chance to see a few there rooms…all unique…but none have our lights!
Our drive today will be 3 hours plus photo stops and will take us north.
So glad we returned to the Mesquita….the cathedral/mosque. It was more spectacular than I even thought. I loved the long vistas of the red and white arches. I enjoyed watching the delight of two children dancing on the colourful spots reflected by the stain glassed windows. They danced in silence but in awe of the spots.
Back out in the warm sun again, through the narrow cobbled streets…(no cars!) passed the whitewashed old Cordoba houses with black wrought iron balconies …to the shade of the umbrella in a nearby cafe. A glass of Cava for me and a Sangria from Norm.
Onwards to our hotel and upwards to our terrace, two floors up. A snack of leftover chocolate cake from Regardero, chocolates from our room, a lemon muffin and the last bottle of Norm’s Cava gift. While we felt the warm Spring sunshine had turned hot!
We returned later for sunset and headed off for a late dinner. Sunset is close to 9 pm here.
We had discovered this flamenco venue serving food on our wanderings. We hoped it wouldn’t be too touristy and that the food would be good. We arrived early to get a table in the squishy intimate quarters. The flamenco music and dance had me clapping all the way home, with the rhythms still pounding in my head. So much fun. The food actually was very good. The performance lasted about an hour. There were lots of Spanish tourists there as well and Flamenco wannabes. Good times!
We really loved our visit to Cordoba. There was so much more to Cordoba than we were able to do. As we were leaving we passed the very green riverfront so refreshingly cool…never made it there. Then there were the many museums …never made it there either. But I did learn that Cordoba was once the second largest city in Europe! Imagine!
The journey from Cordoba was a fairly long car ride about 3 hours plus then add on all the wildflower stops and it was a long afternoon. But it sure was a pretty country drive!
We arrived at the closed gate of our farmhouse hotel after a 3 km long dirt road. We are now late. We pressed the buzzer. No answer. Thoughts race through your mind. What if no one answers? We pressed the buzzer again. Success.
Up the beautifully lined driveway of cypress and other beautiful shrubbery to our very Spanish styled farmhouse. There we met lovely Marina, originally from Cadiz area, who checked us in. Several times we have had Cadiz mentioned on this trip…I think it’s maybe a sign for us to go there as we have not yet had that pleasure.
The pool is not open here yet. Completely covered. The morning brings cool temperatures, but by now you can really feel the warmth. Should be 25 or 26 soon, but right now in the shade I have a sweater on. April is such a beautiful month here in Spain…but so far no possibilities for swimming unless you like the freezing cold. Soon there will be sweltering here. We learned that our hotel in Cordoba shuts down completely in July and August…it’s just that hot as to be not worthwhile to open. I was quite shocked at that.
But right now let’s just enjoy Spanish springtime…here for only a short time.
Nice to relax after our two hour circuitous drive through the mountains. I can’t help but marvel over Norm’s navigational skills. No he didn’t pay me to say that, lol!
The drive was fine but not spectacular. Interestingly lots of places to picnic (we didn’t know) but no roadside restaurants…very natural surroundings, no facilities. A glass of wine on a terrace would have been so nice. But instead we are here with a great view of the mountains!
Lots of sheep in the fields, and a few free range pigs. Spanish lavender and flouncy white gum rock rose were everywhere in bloom. Both obviously very prolific and successful in these barren spots. Certainly there were many happy pollinators!
A little surprised to see an abundance of cork trees, still in production.
We are on our way today to Toledo. The plan being to meet up with the car rental people, hand off the car at a preplanned meeting spot on the outskirts and then taxi to our old-town hotel in Toledo. Hopefully all will go smoothly! No long photo stops.
"With Flamenco Music Filling My Heart and My Head With Joyful Sounds"
April 14, 2024 - Entre dos Aguas, Toledo
"Toledo…oh the sweetness!"
Sure is nice to wake up to another sunny day in Spain with an expected high of 29. Last full day of our trip.
There is lots to see in the narrow streets of Toledo where history hangs solemnly in the air everywhere. The elements of Catholicism reigning supreme. There are so very many churches. At one point Toledo was a happy peaceful mixture of Jewish, Catholics and Muslims all living together. At one point it also was the capital of Spain!
Yesterday afternoon we toured what’s known as the Jewish Quarter. Once a thriving ethnic community complete with several synagogues. But in the 1400’s King Ferdinand declared that all the Jews need to become Catholics or else be expelled, in the whole of Spain. Some converted, most left.
The streets were busy, the restaurants were full of Sunday late lunchers. Not too many cars thankfully which made it more enjoyable to walk in. Toledo is very hilly and caused us more than a few aches and pains, but we endured.
When we returned home, a gift was placed on the bed. A gift of marzipan…not a sweet I particularly like but very famous here. It is said that two sisters from a Toledo convent invented this sweet at a time in the 16th century when there was famine and nothing much in the cupboard. Almond trees were everywhere so they blended ground almonds with sugar. Thus the tradition began and continues to this day.
For dinner, there apparently was only one good option open on Sunday evenings. So that’s where we went. Restaurante Alfileritos 24. What an interesting place architecturally speaking, a fascinating blend of modernity and with antiquity bones. My boletes risotto was absolutely delicious! Not on the menu but what the chef makes upon request for vegetarians. Norm spent much of the evening wishing he were me, lol! I did share…a little. With two glasses of delicious white wine medication I hobbled back to the hotel, thanks to the assistance of my navigator and his walking stick. Viva l’Espana! Viva Norm!
April 15, 2024 - Entre dos Aguas, Toledo
Rarely in a rush to get out and about, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast with lots of extras. So much food! Here there is a choice of breakfasts, the one included is good too.
Time to go to the sound proof music room and hear some more of Paco de Lucia’s music. His softer music style makes wonderful romantic dinner music, sometimes with a flame of passion, sometimes fluidly gentle…all the while clearly Spanish guitar. Paco de Lucia was born in the very south of Spain, Algeceiras with Gypsy heritage on his father’s side. He learned guitar very early through his family, practising up to 12 hours a day it is said. He left school very early to make it his career. He turned flamenco in a different direction infusing classical and jazz rhythms, eventually known as New (Nuevo) Flamenco becoming another innovative genre of flamenco.
Eventually we decided to get out into the sunlight for another walk about. Toledo sure is hilly. We decided to pick up a light ‘picnic’ supper and purchased a take-out goat cheese salad with fruit and nuts, a plate of ham and Manchego cheese. We had a good conversation with a waitress there who had lived in NY for 20 years, but after a divorce returned to her happy place Spain.
A few photos from our walk. Elements of Spanish architecture ….arches and an inner courtyard. Spanish gardens are notoriously green. Often the interior has roses. And don’t forget, an olive tree. Sometimes a fountain. Always a cool refreshing place to sit as temperatures climbed to 29 degrees and we sizzled in pure sunshine.