Welcome to 'Life in a Hammock', a capture of Gayle's daily 'real time' eBlogs of our travels.  

Shorter than our Travel Blog but more literary with somewhat of a different perspective.
                   
                     Spain 2023 - May 21 to June 06


May 21 / 22, 2023 - Halifax to Toronto to Barcelona to Llardurs (La Vella Farga)


"Buenos Dias Day 1"

Waking up in Spanish Pyrenees paradise … the sun is shining, the birds are singing surrounded only by nature and green trees.  Why are they green ... it rains.  So it will not be all sunshine and roses although right now we have both.  

This place is definitely PGW and QLW!  Put this place on your Spanish list! 
That is Princess Gayle Worthy….or for Bill…Queen Linda Worthy!  
Gorgeous property, feels very French although locally owned we hear.  

Time flies by when you travel.  Loved being in the AC lounge so relaxing … interesting no difference between lunch and dinner though.  Watched all of Season 1 of White Lotus on the plane which left minimal time to sleep. Good thing I wasn’t driving as it was hard to stay awake.  Slow process upon arrival with immigration and car rental.  But we are here now!  After Siesta time at La Vella Farga we enjoyed a delicious unique light supper with a bottle of Muga! 

Spanish lesson of the day…Buenos vs Buenas…

Buenos Dias Good Morning (Dias is masculine)

Buenas Tarde
Buenas Noche 
(both Tarde and Noche are feminine) 

Good Afternoon
Good Night
  

Gorgeous stone buildings and property.





 Elegance yet not too formal.




Welcome Cava and cookies.



Villa Farga, highly floral decorative style …very French influence it seems.




If only it was warmer!


And for Linda…an olive tree! Can’t go to Spain without seeing one!
  


May 23, 2023 - Llardurs (La Vella Farga)


"La Vella Farga"


Waking up to gorgeous sunshine and at 8:30 am 9 degrees.  Likely same deal as yesterday … lovely morning until the clouds move in and perhaps a little thunder shower action.

We are planning to go on a short road trip to the nearby town of Solsona.  Yesterday we visited our closest town Lladurs 2 km or so down the road … there was a small school, an old church, and a few buildings … that’s it.

You know it’s a peaceful and relaxing spot when the highlight of your day is hearing a cuckoo bird!  

Little chips in the fine china are starting to appear, so to speak.  Service is a little spotty we have determined. But still a great place for ‘French Country’ atmosphere.  

A slow slothful day.


View from down the road.
 



Lladurs through the grapevine.



It’s spring in Spain … time for poppies to bloom.


Time stands still in Lladurs and the lichen is about all that grows bigger.



May 24, 2023 - Llardurs (La Vella Farga) with a visit to Solsona


"Day Four Headed West"



Moving day.  Next stop … Gramos ... a one nighter ahead to break up the drive.  Headed further into the Pyrenees, weather says rainy.  But right now the birds are singing and there is some sun.  

The cuckoo bird got us up early this morning.  Three nights here was a perfect way to start the trip!  

Turns out there is quite an international crew here at Vella Farga … Cuba. England, Argentina, Columbia, Nigeria and most likely more.  Probably accounts for a lot … constant changes in team from year to year.

Yesterday we had a good visit to Solsona walking around its old quarter seeing what we could see.  Not a touristed town.  One nice young fellow stopped to chat and practice his good English.  Followed by another chat at the local Patisserie.  Quite an interesting town, not too big.  

Just as we were almost home the skies opened and the thunder cracked so in the car we sat until the heavy rain lessened.

It was so nice to enjoy a couple glasses of Cava before dinner.  Dinner was very good with lots of veggies and burrata cheese for me.  Norm had oxtail which he very much enjoyed … although not the lamb he really wanted.



Formal elegance at La Vella Farga.



But quirky too.


Norm wringing out his wet socks. It rained hard.


Let them eat cake!



The park fountain.


The medieval gargoyles under the eaves.  Always watching …


The church had the most beautiful painted dome.                                              The winding narrow streets.



May 25, 2023 - Llardurs (La Vella Farga) to Gramos (Casa Rural Les Flors)


"Gramos - Casa Rural Les Flors"



Clouds and clouds that open and close the world as we know it at their whim.  It is now sunny … but who knows for how long?  

Great bargain here!  Nice large room with a killer view when you can see it, coffee available anytime, fabulous dinner, and pets to pet.  All for 110 euro plus 20 euro each for dinner.  3 courses.  Exceptionally low priced good wine!  Clouds are free and come with the room.

Weather at 9 am is chilly at 10 degrees but promises to be in the 20s by the afternoon.  But today we are headed further into the higher Pyrenees where five years ago at this time of year there was enough snow to throw snowballs.  But it’s not raining!

The drive yesterday was only a few hours long but was quite picturesque with lots of wildflowers blooming in the ditches and a herd of the most adorable cows with long sharp horns.  Rain interrupted our plans to go to visit a mountain village but what can you do?  

Lazy afternoon, dinner was early at 8 pm.  The nice couple that own the place are from Andorra and are also both chef and waiter.  A charming place … dining room converted from a stable.  Even a cow trough where only a few years ago was a cow ‘cafe’ shall we say.  

Today a long drive northwest to Benasque … Selba D’Ansils.  3 1/2 hours straight but we never go straight, always lots of stops and maybe a snowball fight.

Thinking of Joni Mitchell’s song …Both Sides Now …

Rows and flows of angel hairAnd ice cream castles in the airAnd feather canyons everywhereLooked at clouds that way
But now they only block the sunThey rain and they snow on everyoneSo many things I would have doneBut clouds got in my way
I've looked at clouds from both sides nowFrom up and down and still somehowIt's cloud illusions I recallI really don't know clouds at all
Definitely one of the best salads ever.  Cranberry, apple, goat cheese combo




Definitely one of the best salads ever.  Cranberry, apple, goat cheese combo.









May 26, 2023 - Gramos (Casa Rural Les Flors) to Benasque (Selba d'Ansils)


"On the road to Selba D’Ansils and High in the Pyrenees"

High in the Pyrenees may mean different things to different people, lol!  But I mean like over 3,600 feet.  After our long drive we arrived to a rural scene that could have been Switzerland with the cow bells clanging in the meadow, snow capped peaks in places and cheese fondue for dinner.  But just after arriving the rain started.  All of Catalonia has been in drought for months apparently.  Not much snow and no rain in spring … until we came along … and then the rain gods began their work.  It is on the cool side but no down jacket yet. 

Before we left Casa Rural Les Flors I invited Mask, one of the resident dogs to take a walk with me in the beautiful gardens.  Oh how I miss my dog!  A few photos of the garden. 

The drive was quite beautiful to Benasque and the road was very good, quite empty and not full of hairpin turns like the smaller roads. 

Not sure of how the day will unfold.





Below right Selba D’Ansils.  A new building but made to look old.  Like staying at Grandma’s only a large whirlpool indoor jacuzzi bath and modern shower.  Even a gas fireplace!  Will be a nice romantic spot.  And we bought some accoutrements….Cava, Muga and tapas! 



May 27, 2023 - Benasque (Selba d'Ansils)


"Day 2 ... Hotel Selba D’Ansils"

Went to sleep listening to the clang of cow bells, and woke up to the clang of church bells or so I thought.  But no it was those beautiful cow bells once again.  All that’s missing here is Heidi! 

Saturday, despite the forecast,  turned out to be a beautiful day with temperatures rising into the mid 20s.  We decided we would drive 1/2 hour away to one of our favourite restaurants Casa Javier for a late lunch / early supper.  It did not disappoint!  Seems to attract many more people now than our 1st visit in the fall of 2011.  No doubt drawn to the good food and prices.

The burrata cheese on my thinly sliced tomato salad was the best, so fresh, creamy and delicious.  The veggie rice so good, and the mushroom ice cream to die for.  Your kind of dessert … savoury yet sweet enough.  Made from boletes mushrooms picked from the forest behind the farm … or so it was when in 2011 Javier told us about it. 

We took a short mountain road detour on the way back.  So beautiful with the sun streaming through the treetops. The shadows were long and the mountains were glowing.   And the view, so amazing!





May 28, 2023 - Benasque (Selba d'Ansils)


"Moving Day … headed to Casa San Martin"

Waking up to beautiful sunshine and cool temps … just like every day.  And again just like every day the rain is coming for us around noon they say.  Which is why I said yesterday … blog is on the back burner … after breakfast let’s just go in our drive!  Turned out to be an excellent decision. 

Not a long drive up to a ski lodge.  We remember being here 5 years ago, within a week’s time difference, sitting outside in the sun sipping a beer and a coffee while watching the skiers come in.  But this year, at this time, the lodge was closed and the only snow was at highest elevations.  This year has been a hard one in Catalonia … no snow and no rain until now.

Then back to our place to sit in front of the gas fireplace with a glass of wine and cava.   Then to the jacuzzi tub where the bubbles were practically a mile high and miraculously didn’t fill the entire room.  Note to self … only use a small amount of bath gel not the whole tube, lol! 

A few photos with the mountain backdrop and glacial water, orchids in the high meadow and blue spring gentian flowers.  Oh so pretty!  





May 29, 2023 - Benasque (Selba d'Ansils) to Solana (Casa de San Martin)


"Saying Goodbye to Selba Ansils and hello to Casa San Martin"

We left Hotel Selba D’Ansils all relaxed and ready for the return to Casa San Martin for the third time.  We loved the constant cowbell choir and the very rural setting but after our big delicious breakfast it was time to go.

Part of the route was closed and would have required a longer detour so we opted for a narrow road shortcut suggested by David from Casa San Martin.  It was spectacular with its mountain views and alpine meadows.   At one point I couldn’t resist and climbed up the steep embankment and just sat amongst the flowers and breathed in the cool mountain air.  A wonderful moment!

We arrived at Casa San Martin mid afternoon greeted by not only David but a herd of cows in the adjacent field.  And of course as we knew would happen thunder clapped and the afternoon rain, although late, began. 

We were the only guests last night but David assured us more would follow in the next few days.  Dinner was fabulous with an international flair from a mushroom mousse, a lentil salad to a Brazilian coconut milk veggie stew creation (with a chunk of fish for Norm).  So good!


On the way to Casa San Martin.  Flowers in the meadow.






May 30, 2023 - Solana (Casa de San Martin)


"Casa San Martin…Mornings start early"

Waking up to the melodious charm of clanging cowbells once again and the songbirds singing their sweet morning serenade.  We sleep with the windows open so while I’m toasty warm under the blankets the chill in the air is piercing.  The temperature will quickly climb once the sun comes over the mountains.

Yesterday was a do nothing day filled with a few walks around the property and smelling the roses and experiencing the joy of just being.  Time seems to stand still, like nothing changes … but we know that can’t be true.    On the property there is a 16 foot intricately carved totem pole.  There is a story there that David has yet to tell us.  So many stories to share. 

We can see from his property some odd colourful plastic structures in amongst the trees on the adjacent mountainside.  You know there is a story there.  Turns out there are some ‘squatters’ over there which have claimed some abandoned houses and are seeking an alternative lifestyle from their former professional lives.  The plastic ‘eyesores’ are temporary while they repair their roofs.  Squatters from all over Europe are not uncommon here in the mountains apparently … David has much respect for this particular group and they have become helpful neighbours.  They come over for a coffee and conversation and bring him some ‘wealth’ from their gardens.

As far as I know the squatters are on ‘borrowed’ land they do not own.  But I think David would say that not all squatters are created equal … some just want to be users and drop out of society … others want an alternative lifestyle but contribute positively to their environment.  There is a variety of types here in the mountains but his friends are of the latter variety.  He says they are smart, well educated people that look after the land and give back.  They are an international European group from what I understand.

Dinner was once again amazing.  I had to ask David for smaller portions though as I just can’t eat so much food as delicious as it is.  We all laughed at my dinner plate though where sat the most humongous stuffed pepper I have ever seen.  Smaller portions … maybe tomorrow.

Not sure what today will bring … likely a short drive though in the mountains.   Usual forecast sunny in the am, followed by clouds and rain likely around mid day to afternoon.  By evening usually the skies clear.  No sunsets or sunrises for us. 

Wishing you a great day!




The mysterious totem.


Old and new Lichens, the colour of the sun, all with stories to tell if only they could talk. 


Red roses, mountain views and such sweet smelling air.



My delicious stuffed red pepper.



May 31, 2023 - Solana (Casa de San Martin)


"Casa San Martin and another Mountain View Excursion"

The cloak of thick ‘wooly’ fog completely surrounds us this morning as we awake.  Low expectations of good weather today … but we will see. 

It was a late night for us … our dinner conversation with two other couples continuing long after the dinner service ended.  Part of the joy of travelling!  I continue to be amazed at the depth of knowledge of the English language by many travelling Europeans.  And English is not their only other '2nd' language either.

Today we will likely explore the town of Ainsa, about a half hour drive away and go to a bird sanctuary.  We will have to get out at a reasonable time considering businesses still close at siesta time (2pm). 

Yesterday was an enjoyable time exploring a mountain valley route, Valle de Boie and a few of the picturesque villages along the way.  As the weather warmed by the time we hit Ainsa even climbing into the high 20s we imagined sipping cava on our balcony with beautiful green forested mountain views.  But it was not to be as quickly the weather changed and we were in fog, rain and cool air that numbed our hands. 

Always look forward to the dinners at Casa San Martin and this evening’s menu certainly didn’t disappoint! 


Norm, taking it all in…we can’t hike
 but sure can enjoy the mountain air and the views!
A really unique special wine…neither a red nor a white

Hope you have a wonderful day!


Mountain village …what a view!                                                                           Wild roses.


Norm, taking it all in…we can’t hike but sure can enjoy the mountain air and the views!


A really unique special wine …neither a red nor a white.



June 01, 2023 - Solana (Casa de San Martin) to 


"Casa San Martin"

Caught a glimpse of the enormous round Strawberry Moon just before it fell behind the mountain scape. The full moon is really tonight though.  Yet we are waking up to ‘cloud surround’ once again.  Headed southeast today probably to lower elevations too.  First though  back to Ainsa and a wildlife museum.

Despite the light rain drops yesterday we made a short day trip to the historic old town of Ainsa.  On the way there we encountered a shepherd crossing the road with his hundreds of sheep.  Fascinating to watch them hustle safely across.  We reached Ainsa only a half hour from Casa San Martin.  The small round cobblestones were polished, shiny and threatened to be slippery with the light rain.  Because of the weather there were fewer tourists, it was almost like having the ancient town to ourselves.  But we did meet one of the couples who spent the previous night in Casa Martin who gave us some ideas of a future possibility at our next place in Graus … a Buddhist temple that gives tours.  Since Erin has ties with the Buddhist community in Halifax we thought this might be an interesting educational stop for us if possible.  

Back home again to Casa San Martin by early afternoon.  Eventually the sun poked out so we headed to the communal terrace area for a glass of wine or two.  We had hoped to open the bottle of Cava we had brought, with David, and hear some more of his stories but this was not to be.  We still don’t know about the totem.  He has encountered some health issues over the last few years and unfortunately the stories seem fewer.  We realize we may never be back to this very special spot so we try to take it all in.  Sigh!

Off to new possibilities and adventures in Graus today.  I see blue sky now at Casa San Martin! 


Sheep crossing the road en masse.

   
Ainsa’s narrow alleyways.                                            Norm entering the portal at Ainsa.


Norm enjoying a glass of wine in a spot of sun.


The cauliflower soup presentation with a crispy ruffled rice wrap.  Delicious.



June 02, 2023 - Solana (Casa de San Martin) to Bodegas de Arnes (Graus) 


"Casa San Martin to Bodegas de Arnes"

Waking up today to clouds with the promise of some sun then rain then maybe sun again.  A strange but consistent weather pattern here in the Pyrenees.  We had fun reading your eBlog before getting out of bed, but with all those steps I’m so tired I think I won’t get up for awhile!

Our new place is a very distinctive building that can be seen from the highway.  It gets great reviews and the people are wonderful.  Our room is a suite with a separate living room area.  Decorated in the Moroccan style with a gauzy gold canopy overlay straight from Marrakech and bright blue ceilings.  Quite striking.  While it is charming and with an even better bed, it isn’t Casa San Martin …

Dinner last night was very good.  The tomato bisque with fried and lightly breaded thin crispy artichoke spears was amazing.  Very, very delicious.  Angel, the chef, did a wonderful job.  By the way this Angel is a man.

Leaving Casa San Martin was a little sad … we will probably never be back.  David will continue to try and sell the property … and we could tell he was ready to move on with a new life.  But before we left we made sure we had an answer to the story of the declining totem.  Norm will have more details.  But I will tell you this … it is from Borneo in Indonesia and he obtained it in Spain by a very circuitous route.  It is actually not a totem but a funeral pole!  Some have suggested this funeral pole is not a good omen to have around … both David and the gardener have had bad accidents coming down the hill in the last few years since it has been here.  Hopefully the spirits will settle peacefully and the pole will remain, perhaps even erected upright if they can figure out how to do it safely.

Before we left we stopped off at the 1,000 years old holly oak tree.  There I became a ‘tree sandwich’ for a few minutes.  It was a tight squeeze, lol.  Imagine the secrets and stories a 1,000 year old tree could tell! 

Our drive from Casa San Martin to Graus was a short one with a quick stop first in Ainsa again to see the fauna museum and small Bearded Vulture (and other birds of prey) Sanctuary.  Bearded Vultures are an essential ecological component to life balance in the Pyrenees and have a very specialized diet … they only eat bones.  After the other types of vultures pick away at the carcasses of dead animals, the bearded vultures do the final clean up and eat all of the bones.  Thus cleaning up the environment.  Very large birds with huge wingspans. 
So very interesting, too bad we were rushed … staff siesta time! 

We continued on our journey with a beautiful and easy pretty flat drive along a valley with a blue green river and steep rock faces on either side.  As Norm would say … the route was “gorgeous”. 

Photos
One of the ceilings in our suite
Tomato Bisque

The tree sandwich.                             Birds of Prey in the Pyrenees.


One of the ceilings in our suite.                                          Tomato Bisque.



June 03, 2023 - Bodegas de Arnes (Graus)


"A touch of Bhutan"


Woke up to sunshine today!  Last morning in the Pyrenees before we head to our last place one hour or so from the Barcelona Airport.  The drive is supposed to be about two hours but will likely take us four.   Breakfast is at 9:30 am, a late breakfast is common in Spain as is of course dinner.  Went to dinner about 8:45 pm or so and we were the first to arrive.  Dinner was good … but oh that tomato bisque from the other night was just so amazing not possible to beat that in my books.

Yesterday we visited a Buddhist community just down the road not too far away.  It transported us to another world very far away for a couple hours.  We were not able to join a tour so just walked around ourselves.   Six lamas (religious leaders) from Bhutan live there.  The community is open for retreats and accommodation for those who wish. 

Afterwards we thought we would take a small road to Roda, known to be the smallest village to have a cathedral … not too far away, shouldn’t take us too long … or so we thought.  The road had been recently graded it seemed judging from the equipment by the side of the road.  All was good for awhile until it wasn’t.  The isolated road was gravel, very narrow, with large ruts and exposed protruding large rocks in certain places.  At one of the worst spots I got out of the car to assess the situation … I judged it to be impossible but Norm did not I guess … as the car inched forward and wedged against the rocks it then became impossible to turn around.  At that point the car was tilted and only driving on 3 wheels!  Against all odds, we eventually made it out … the car unscathed.  Quite a miracle!  Must have been my fearless competent driver or perhaps my prayers at the Buddhist temple … or both.  We both said we would never had attempted that road knowing what we know.

When we got to Roda, the thunder cracked, the lightening forked and rain began.  Luckily not before.  Too bad because the village looked lovely and quite medieval. 

Every day we say this is the day we will have our bottle of Cava we keep carting around.  And everyday we don’t … maybe today we will have sun, and cava!  





June 04, 2023 - Bodegas de Arnes (Graus) to Mas Xipres, Sant Pere Sacarrera


"On the road again to Mas Xipres ... such a delight once we found it"

Yipeee!  Slept in until 8:30 am.  No hurry as breakfast isn’t until 9:30 am.  Only an hour from big city life of Barcelona, it is quiet and peaceful here at this over 200 year old farmhouse.

Dinner was held in their old barn converted into a dining lounge area.  Lovely and charming not fancy … even a swallow made a nest in the rafters and was flying in and out trying to feed the little ones.  We ate by candlelight … power went out again until bedtime.

We enjoyed the company of a family from Arizona travelling with their 82 year old Professor Mom who not only still teaches at home but is giving a lecture at a conference here.  

We all drank Cava while we watched the paella production, layer after layer sizzling on a 20 inch iron paella pan.  So many ingredients, calamari, sepia, chicken, langostinos,  clams and mussels, the tomato soffrito, toasted rice, and peas all adding their flavour one at a time.   It was not only a dinner show but a cooking class too.  I had my own paella made earlier entirely of vegetables … it was so good! 

What a wonderful way to present a little Spanish culture and cuisine while making the guests feel so comfortable!  Although our hosts are Dutch, they have been living here since 2006.  Wine for ‘dessert’ followed and we all headed to the outdoor chairs with a beautiful view of rolling fields while we watched the swallows flit around and the bats do a fly past.  A perfect end to a wonderful personal evening!

Photos
Paella making, layer by layer, over a gas fired portable unit.
Our hosts Hendrik  and Hetty
The view after dinner while sipping our wine and chatting.