Welcome to 'Life in a Hammock', a capture of Gayle's daily 'real time' eBlogs of our travels.  

Shorter than our Travel Blog but more literary with somewhat of a different perspective.

   
               Costa Rica 2024 - February 06 to March 01


February 06 - 08, 2024

"A blend of three days"

Woke up today Feb 8th to a gorgeous bright yellow sunrise, squawking toucans (they sound like a rusty swing) and Howler monkeys.  You can hear the waves crash on the coastline too.  The thought of a delicious Costa Rican rice and beans breakfast is making me hungry.  As soon as my Coffee Maestro awakes further the expectedly excellent coffee will follow.

It’s 6:05 an now, 5:45 am  when I first grabbed the iPad…note to self…too late…must get up earlier!  The photo missed the true beauty of sunrise.


Now to go back to the beginning…new email.




February 06, 2024 - Guacima Escondida, Guacima

"From the beginning"

I think Norm was excited to get away from it all.  His packing  strategy sorted about 2 weeks ago.  No last minute packing for him! 

Thanks guys once again for the hot seat ride to the airport…so comfy…I accidentally turned on the seat heater for those who don’t know. 

So we get to the lounge in Halifax, never been there before, and it’s small with a broken latte machine.  Luckily there was a different machine with plainer choices.  The food was good though.  My favourite memory was how delicious a cool glass of Chardonnay went with double chocolate chip cookies, lol.  Finally it was time to board and begin the journey!

Arriving in TO with hours to spend was definitely a fun way to start.  But for the first time I began to see wear and tear with some of the lounge facilities.  Food not quite as good either as Montreal.  However the coffee machine worked!   I predict with my crystal ball a lounge renovation soon!

Time to board for Costa Rica!  Uneventful flight, and we arrived 45 minutes earlier in San Jose!  They weren’t ready for us unfortunately!  A long bus ride (it seemed) to our gate.  We scored a seat though.   And to our surprise ….so different to our previous recent experiences…. a dreamily short immigration line.  We’re here…Costa Rica!!!

No photo…sorry.



February 07, 2024 - Guacima Escondida, Guacima to Tiki Villas, Uvita


"Yesterday all our troubles seemed to vanish away"

We like our cheap hotel at $65 US.  Large room, good bed, surrounded by trees and gardens.  It’s cooler here in San Jose with a brisk breeze running through.  But upon checking out there was a problem with what we thought the hotel included and what it did not …and the problem with providing price for services, like breakfast and shuttle service.  Norm talked on the phone with the owner, and they settled on not paying for breakfast (which was clearly the included….we have proof) and in the end ordered an UBER.  Really nice Uber driver that took us direct to the car rental place at a fraction of the price.  So all was good yet it just didn’t feel quite right overall.  We will return there for 2 nights at the end.  We really like the place, like the staff except for the ‘misunderstanding’ better described as seemingly a ‘misrepresentation’ by the German/Dutch owner…

Eventually picked up a rental car…it was on Costa Rican time .. not ready as expected. 

Such a hot day ahead and such a long way to go.   A route we have taken many times.  Happy with our car and it’s good mileage despite its size.

Tiki Villas is not that far off the main road but is quite isolated and really gives off a great jungle feel.  Our unit is super close to the Lodge with a good sea view and is super for mobility challenges…the resort is on multiple levels with steep stairs.  On the negative side we can hear the music playing nonstop…at least it’s not loud and is more Caribbean type.  We can hear the road noise somewhat too…but the trade off is it’s not too far to get to the main road to go out.  If we ever do, lol….

It truly is a beautiful spot!  Only 29 degrees today…but feels hotter for sure.  Yesterday was in the 30s. 

For part of dinner I had a half portion of tropical salad with mango dressing…it was sooo good!!! 





February 08, 2024 - Tiki Villas Rainforest Lodge, Uvita


"Happy Birthday to me!"

Another beautiful morning to wake up to…but the sky was red. A very early start to the day, about 415 or so.  The fruit bats were darting from tree to tree, the Howler monkeys were far in the distance and the clattering toucans had not yet arisen.  No cicada noise…they are clearly day risers here.  Unfortunately I woke up to a blocked ear…how random.  If this was a birthday gift, I don’t want it, lol!  Hopefully it will clear….been down this road before.  Likely not an infection.

Yesterday was blissfully relaxing with many dips in the pool for me while Norm was busy producing the blog.  But magically a delicious Pina Colada arrived, and in addition, a 2 foot lizard friend joined me for a bit.  I think he had his eye on my drink, lol…

Everyone else was off at activities I assume so it was almost like a private pool. 


We vaguely mapped out the next few days loose plans.  We are staying in two different places very close by for a total of 7 days.  We have some favourite must do spots to consider and one freebie (the restaurant by the water with the monkeys inside).  We decided to eat again at our hotel instead of going out..it didn’t disappoint! 


Looking forward to another Costa Rican breakfast today!  





February 09, 2024 - Tiki Villas Rainforest Lodge, Uvita

"Celebrations x 2"

No Howlers this morning.  No toucans chattering in the early morning.  I slept in …as expected…. after a fun evening starting with drinks at a local restaurant with beautiful sunset views over the bay.  Then we drove further south to another restaurant, Exotica for another great meal.  We almost feel like celebrities as we get such a warm welcome from Maite, one of the co owners.  This is visit no 4.  The vodka laced mushroom tomato stroganoff is so delicious I have it every time.  And always a reminder of where we really are…a tropical rainforest….an intense shower came out of nowhere.  But we stayed dry despite the intermittent showers.  Delicious Banana Flambé for dessert.  Such a night for a double celebration!!!  We’re grandparents!

So much to like about Tiki Villas and a few minor things we would improve on.  Luckily the music is less audible this morning.  Don’t you hate it when there is no small clothesline to hang up your swimwear to dry.  (I bring clothespins and we used the wood railings…not so good for the wood). 

The pool is wonderful, warmer than usual…with a gorgeous view to the water below.  We met a much larger ‘Relish’ yesterday who popped in for a visit.  We ordered a bottle of Sparkling Wine (no Cava available) to celebrate.  Leaving half for a nightcap…which just didn’t happen.  By the time we got home, last to leave the restaurant, it was straight to bed.  What an exciting wonderful day!







February 10, 2024 - Tiki Villas Rainforest Lodge, Uvita


"Morning awesomeness"

We really are “sloths on vacation”.  While others are planning their far and wide excursions, we sloths just sit and wait for them to leave.  We then have a private sunny rainforest and its amenities all to ourselves.  So there will is not much new to say except we are having a terrific time doing what we sloths know best….hanging out, relaxing, grabbing a bite to eat, nap time, drink time, ❤️ ….and repeat.  The pure magic starts before the others are even awake.  sssh…! 

Morning sounds and sites.  Howlers up the mountains at 5 am, not at the beach.  5 or 6 colourful toucans landed on a tree outside our cottage.  Of course, they disappeared as soon as I awakened Norm!  Also a beautiful  sounding one, reminded me somewhat of a donkey bray prettier sounding.  The dew on the cropped bamboo hedges sparkled like jewels in the hot sunshine.  Morning comes early!

Toasting to Jett and Katrina after supper

We are checking out today moving to a place I never thought I would stay.  I, not Norm, just got the wrong impression and am big enough to admit it.  So here we are even returning!!!  Do you ever meet someone and form a mostly baseless opinion?  Not usually but we all are not perfect.  I remember the circumstance …I was really, really hot and Norm wanted to go Boruca mask shopping but it was a wait because no one was there.  Then ‘he’ arrived …a fast talking American ‘salesman’, Sid, who had lived the high life in LA and Florida (in his ‘past life’).  I was not impressed.  I misjudged.  Turns out Sid is a wonderful guy with a huge heart that would help just about anyone.  So we will stay again, perhaps hear some more stories of Michaelynn, Sid’s outgoing wife with a million interesting tales of life in the LA fast lane…the music/restaurant business.  Our pleasure to return to this rustic paradise they purchased only a few years ago. 

Have a great day!  Soon it will be you two on vacay! 



February 11, 2024 - Tiki Villas Rainforest Lodge to Pacific Edge, Dominicalito

"Posh Tiki Villas to Comfortably Rustic Pacific Edge"

Wow it’s Feb 13th, so it’s close to being in Costa Rica for a week.  I have a few days to catch up on

After a long chat with Gerald, Tiki Villas front desk about all different things.  Turns out his partner is studying to be a doctor of psychology.  We thought he was 20 at best…turns out he found the fountain of youth and is 29 and a Dad, only to happy to have a beanie baby to take home to his daughter in a week’s time!  We also made a plan to get some help for my ear which although not painful prevented me from conversation as I felt like I was underwater hearing things.  As the clinic wasn’t open we went to the pharmacy where I got some drops. I hoped they would work their magic.  Having had a significant eustation tube dysfunction more than 10 years ago I was a little scared of what could be ahead. 

The rest of the previous day just spelt “r…e…l…a…x…a… t…I…o…n”, including many dips in the Tahitian water temperature pool.  No hammocks.  Dinner at the restaurant.  Our conclusion was that although Tiki Villas was very nice and had certain advantages like an onsite restaurant, it was likely we wouldn’t return. 

So off we were to Pacific Edge, just down the road and partway up the “mountain”, at least the dirt road was well maintained.   We were not only greeted by Sid and Michaelynne but a troop of adorable white faced monkeys shortly afterwards.  Can’t get enough of the view over the jungle to the stretches of coastline as far as the eye can see!  Heavenly!






February 12, 2024 - Pacific Edge Eco Lodge, Dominicalito

"Pacific Edge Day 2"

I woke up to the muffled jungle sounds of the morning knowing that it was time to see a doctor.  We lingered over breakfast talking with a very nice British couple who were doing a 3 week rapid tour of the whole country.  A lot of driving!  Sid’s banana pancakes for breakfast…so good! 

Then it was off to the private clinic not too far away.  I went through the doors unable to hear in one ear but left with perfect hearing.  At least a 68 year old version of perfect hearing.  So grateful! 

All set for the Osa now.  Further ‘English speaking’ medical facilities basically stop here.
That will be our journey on Wed.  But for now we just needed another hammock day in paradise.  Later we headed to the lodge for a few drinks and a swim…the tropical drinks were delicious but the swim never happened.   We got talking…me, finally feeling part of the conversation! 

We are all caught up now.  Breakfast Burrito was this morning’s choice for both of us.  So delicious!  I am hearing a mosquito buzzing nearby but I cannot find him….we were told by the doctor dengue fever is present in the Osa and to be mindful of its transmitting source….mosquitos. 

Thinking of you escaping the upcoming snowstorm to your own tropical paradise! 

I needed to further celebrate…that meant pizza!  So we settled on a new to us Italian restaurant with a sunset view.  The Italian waitress/waiter duo were straight from Italy, a little difficult to understand everything they said.  Buffalo mozzarella pizza for me!  So very good!  Although tiramisu was on the menu I had to pass.  






February 13, 2024 - Pacific Edge Eco Lodge, Dominicalito

"Happy Valentine’s Day from Costa Rica"

Woke up to the thunderous howls of the howler monkeys echoing in the valley.  They seem extra active today.  Do they know it’s Valentine’s Day, lol?

Sure glad we aren’t home with all that snow!  Another beautiful day in paradise!  Today is moving day.  We will get on the road by 10 for an anticipated 3 hour drive further south to the wilds of the Osa.  We will park the car in Puerto Jimenez, leaving behind a good chunk of stuff behind for our off the grid experience on the Golfo Dulce at Dolphin Quest. Then we will be picked up by a boat and taken to our jungle digs. 

Don’t know if we will be back at Pacific Edge next year but I won’t be disappointed if we are!  For dinner we thought we would return to last year’s flop as we were invited back by the manager for a free dinner.  La Parcella has a beautiful location, standing all alone by the palm fringed coastline with waves gently crashing.  And sometimes marauding monkeys….there were none tonight. 

So although a reservation was made we seemed to catch them surprised.  They tried to put us at a table beside a speaker.  “Not happening” Norm said as this was a major problem last time.  So we were moved to an adjacent not great table …only to be unexpectedly  moved again at the far end of the restaurant where we were much happier.  

Our waiter Chris was very good, the only problem was that management didn’t tell him about our ‘free meal” so when the bill arrived there was no adjustment.  We offered to pay for drinks and they pay for the meal.  We were happy enough with the end result and would return another time, should there be one.  It probably would have been more of a smooth event if the actual competent manager had been on duty (instead of his wife).   

Ceviche (a white fish appetizer made from raw fish marinated in lime and spices) is very commonly found on the menu but of course I do not try it.  But this time there was vegan avocado ceviche available.  It was delicious!  I enjoyed it along with my expensive gold margarita cocktail (12 US)…still celebrating being able to hear! 
Followed by a huge veggie quesadilla of which I could eat only half.  No dessert.

Now I forgot to mention our pre dinner monkey entourage at Pacific Edge just as we were about to go to dinner.  They are so entertaining to watch!  As they don’t feed them there is no aggression.  Just pure joy watching them and their babies jumping from tree to tree. (No good photos
)






February 14, 2024 - Pacific Edge to Dolphin Quest, Osa Peninsula

"Golfo Dulce….sweet gulf….ahhh so sweet it is!"


Morning started with the Howlers at 430 or so but really not as loud as expected.  The Scarlett Macaws that arrived around 530 …what a racket!!!  Couldn’t see them but they were right there squawking away. When they leave the many layers of bird sounds are soft and beautiful.  The macaws come and go.  Breakfast will be early here, 730.

We love our green cabin …Cabina Verde.   It’s large,  spacious, open air.  With 2 hammocks, a Costa Rican rocking chair, a picnic table and lots of unique art scattered here and there.  The cold showers will take a little to get used too.  The air is full of humidity…I wonder if anything will dry in the shade of the jungle.  We will see.  We are the closest cabin to the beach and the lodge ….although very private and set back a good distance away. 


The lodge is solar powered which is a nice luxury.  We actually are the only cabin with internet. So that is a treat.  We love it…not as rough as the first lodge we stayed at in this area, not as luxe as Golfo Dulce, just more between with a more medium price tag.

So yesterday after a leisurely breakfasts and talking with Sid we finally had to say goodbye to Pacific Edge.  Not only did Sid give us a discount, he threw in 3 days of breakfasts…so generous!  He must know about our budget, lol! 

The drive to Puerto Jimenez where we caught our boat took about 3 hours plus a few stops.  I spotted a large flock of Scarlet Macaws doing a fly past then landing in a nearby tree.  Of course that was enticing to Norm’s inner photographer.  He patiently waited for them as they played peek a boo among the leaves.  After 20 minutes he bailed.  Just as he put his camera away that is when they did a spectacular fly by.  Oh the cursing!  Too funny, sorry Norm but it was very funny.  I shared the laugh with a fellow taking a break from digging a grave in a near.  He was laughing too.  It was almost like they did it on purpose!

We parked our car for for the five nights we will be staying here…hopefully it will be safe.  Puerto Jimenez has its own charm but seems a little rough around the edges when we last visited. 

We waited about short time for our boat ride to here.  On the way over we were fortunate to see a number of dolphins just offshore!  A half hour boat ride followed until we arrived at Dolphin Quest.   So fortunate are we to be back in this part of the Osa on the Golfo Dolce for the 3rd time!


After unpacking it was time to escape the heat and go for a swim and watch the sunset.  The calm water was close to the temperature of the Tiki Villas.  So beautiful!  As was the sunset!


Dinner started with a glass of wine followed by a small, well presented, mostly vegetarian buffet.  We certainly didn’t leave hungry.  A chocolate dessert followed! 

I think we are going to really enjoy being here!





February 15, 2024 - Dolphin Quest, Osa


"Punk Band Now Playing"


In my sleepy world…. a flock of very loud squeaky chickens woke me up.  In reality, it was a number of yelling Scarlet Macaws, in their favourite tree just outside our cabins.  Not a friendly good morning sound, lol.  Lots of other sweet bird sounds playing background music to the main event….the punk sounds of the jungle’s favourite band, The Macaws. 

Today we are on a dolphin tour starting at 8 this morning.

Yesterday was a relaxing day not doing too much of anything.  But I did get two swims in.  At this time the Golfo Dulce water having some waves and not being completely flat.  The water so warm and inviting.   Most of the afternoon was spent mostly in the hammock observing Scarlet Macaws in a very nearby tree.  The hot, humid afternoon just faded away and then it was swim and sunset time.   Sunset was more orange, and very beautiful. 

Looking forward to the day’s possibilities!

PS want no bats…just go to bed early and don’t get up early!  You’ll never know they are there.


As I said before, I’m really enjoying the selection of different veggie dishes.  Last night there were some very delicious cauliflower/broccoli fritters in particular.  Reymar, one of the owners, engaged us with a story about his treasured lost boat in a storm while he was very sick with Covid.  Nearly 2 years later the boat resurfaced full of lobster for all to take home that helped in his boat’s recovery.  Then moments later we were all summoned to look over the railing only to see a 3 foot sized caiman’s eyes glowing in the dark.  He was a pretty big guy or gal.  All of a sudden he took off…man could he move!   So surprising!
  



February 16, 2024 - Dolphin Quest, Osa


"Morning is early in Costa Rica…pretty hard to sleep in to 5 am"


As predicted morning arrived with a raucous verbal brawl between the howlers and macaws.  Team Macaws won, and the Howlers now silent.  Then Team Macaw took on each other and wow was it trash talk! 

Hurried morning as today is the day for the ‘dolphin quest’.  Our boat will leave at 8 am.  Morning on the gulf is the best.

Initially we were a little disappointed we would be cancelling the dolphin tour on Friday…but we seemed to fill in the day just fine!  As sloths usually do.   A leisurely swim in the calm of the morning waters, watching a few small fish jump here and there.  Then a short presentation before lunch began learning about different herbal combinations and their health benefits. And then another wonderful flavourful lunch made from resources grown on the farm.  Hummus made from breadfruit was so good.  The dipping chips of plantain, potato and sweet potato all freshly made!  So many delicious dishes!

Then there was hammock time…a must in the heat.  Another swim for me in the afternoon waves. A walk about the expansive property.  It’s really like we are staying on a jungle farm.  I could see from a distance other cottages.  Determining that our cottage was the best one for us, it’s got internet, and a quick walk to the lodge.  

And it’s large!  The other cabinas are significantly further to walk.  

Sunset was amazing tonight once again the colour orange filled the sky! 

On the way to dinner we heard a rustling sound in the trees above our cottage.  Reymar said it was highly likely that a kinkajou was just passing through.  Who couldn’t love a little animal with a name like that! 

Another fabulous interesting dinner from the land!  As we were the only guests all the staff sat down with us to eat!  We talked about seeing Pumas on the property from Reymar, listened to Vladamir, a South African sea captain’s tales of searching out fishing spots for his boss, and the ills and hope of the world with Cecilia, the delightful US volunteer.  A real medley of people!  The others at the table would surely tell great stories if only we spoke Spanish!
   





February 17, 2024 - Dolphin Quest, Osa


"Cupid Lend Me Your Bow"


Just felt like sleeping in today…not happening.  It’s 607 now, the raucous Macaw Punk Band that has been playing loudly has just vacated our jungle space and all that is left is the sound of chickens and sweet bird songs.  But oh crap…they’re back!  Just fewer of them. 

Up early for breakfast this morning. Sarah is going on a morning ‘mermaid excursion‘ looking for whales, dolphins, and a snorkeling excursion.  An easy relaxing day for us culminating in a bioluminescent experience for us after dinner is the plan for today.   

So, yesterday, after a quick breakfast we headed out on the Gulf to see what we could see. A couple of  Dolphins were almost immediately found quite close to shore chasing some fish for their breakfast.  The fish were flipping out of the water as the dolphins swam after them.  These were Bottleneck Dolphins, like Flipper.  Remember Flipper???  Lots of flippers and fins.


Cecilia, the volunteer also came along in addition to the Boat Captain Alejandro, and Reymar,  who was the educational guide.  It was great!  About a 3 and a half hour tour and we saw plenty of dolphins (2 types), a sea turtle from a distance, a sea snake, a ray. 


We immediately went for a swim on our return.  It was pretty hot as we had to wear long sleeves to stay out of the sun.   We thought we might go swimming and regular sunscreen is not aloud.  There was a spot to go for a swim on our tour but difficult to get in and out of the boat… so we did not.  This spot was actually a coral reef that was undergoing some research and restorative work even while we were there.  Luckily this particular type of coral found here regenerates on its own as well.  You could see where some of the coral had bleached and was now white.  So restoration here is deemed quite successful.  Maybe you needed to snorkel to see much more but the reef didn’t seem super exciting. 


Surprises of the tour.  Seeing dolphins so close to shore, close to Dolphin Quest itself.  An area with turquoise water near the shoreline as turquoise as Greece.  Seeing  a bright yellow sea snake in the middle of the Gulf was a bit of a shock, endemic to Golfo Dulce.  Learning that property owners only own 20 meters of their property before it becomes shared ownership with the National Park.


The coastline is very pristine, pure jungle from the edge to the hilltops.  Land owners have been very conscientious keeping the edge of the jungle.  We learned the owners of Golfo Dulce where we stayed 2 years ago have not been kind to Reymar even trying to shut down his business.  Don’t know why…both places are very different from each other, but both very conservation conscious.  Reymar was born here in Costa Rica from US/Cdn parents.  They are immigrants from Europe.  Strange. 

Before you know it we were eating again.  Super filling make-your-own tortillas.  Homemade shells of course!  So good!  Both corn and flour.  Then it was hammock time for pretty much the rest of the day.  This time there was sweetened cold coffee and a cocoa banana mix for juice.  Always there is a fresh creative juice mixture of some kind. 

We arrived at supper to find 2 new people, Sarah from Chicago and Tammy from Oregon.  Both had attended Surf Camp prior to coming here.   Tammy will be staying to work as a volunteer for a few weeks. 

Lovely Cecilia, Ce Ce as we call her now and Reymar would make a lovely couple.  Cupid where are you??? Lend me your bow!  






February 19, 2024 - Dolphin Quest, Osa to Encanta la Vida, Cabo Matapalo


"Another Day in Jungle Paradise"


I’m definitely getting the hang of sleeping in here and just listening to the boom of the Howlers and screeching of the Macaws.  I think it was 7am when I arose to watch a large blue butterfly gracefully do a fly-past our cabina.  (Blue Morpho butterfly)

Today is moving day but we and they are not in a rush fortunately.  Soon I will hit the beach.

It’s been fun chatting with Tammy and Sarah.  We discussed the bat poo problem in Sarah’s room…it sounds nasty.   Great breakfast topic but seemed normal, lol!   This morning Tammy and I discussed our mutual love of surfing…me from a chair,  her from a board. And should I try it for real?  Can you imagine?  “Hey Norm just going out to ‘Hang Ten’, got to catch a wave before breakfast”! 

The food here is fabulous to my/our taste.  Norm and a really enjoying himself so much so he says he would like to return!  I should not have had 2 desserts  last night…freshly fried puffy gravy goodness smothered with a hibiscus cocoa sauce, to die for.

Let me introduce you to Richy, our chef…


On our way down to the boat launch at the beach last night Tammy was terrified…not 1 but 3 baby snakes on the path she had to navigate around.  A reminder to never let our guard down!  Probably not poisonous, as most snakes in CR are not …but……

Our bioluminescence tour was pretty much a flop with only a few ‘sparkling diamonds’.   But the night tour on the water was still fun…and anchoring in the middle of the gulf for a glass of wine under the stars was memorable.  We have really enjoyed the brief  connections we have made here at Dolphin Quest.  Ce Ce and I said our goodbyes this morning….we share the secret of her potential romance….I wish her all the best.   Such a lovely spiritual person living her life to the fullest.  (She is planning a career shift in the fall, going to Harvard to study ecological sustainability…hopefully all paid for…seems she is very smart!).  She and Reymar would make a beautiful couple…if only!   I will miss her spirit and energy for sure! 


Yesterday there were several opportunities for a swim, the water so warm and quite calm.  The Macaws at the beach, a joy to watch.  The fly pasts spectacular.   Always seemed to happen when Norm put his camera away…were they playing with us???

Doing the squats



February 20, 2024 - Encanta la Vida, Cabo Matapalo, Osa


"A New Jungle, A New Potential Paradise"


Up at 6:00 am … but awake much earlier.  We could hear the howlers sometime before sunrise, not close but present.  Scarlet Macaw noises too but not close.   We are tucked away from the main lodge down a well- lit -at -night rough cobblestoned path.  The Honeymoon Cottage, in a gorgeous jungle setting.  You can hear the rolling waves faintly but cannot see them. 

The lovely pool at the lodge.


Beautiful room, all screened not open.  Real doors for those people that like doors.   Great shower.  No coffee machine.  You can’t have everything.  Most importantly there is a hammock for me, a long outdoor couch and a work area for Mr. Super Blogger❤️


Dinner was rather odd.  No drink menu presented … almost like the bar and the restaurant were separate entities.  No wine with prices.  And no idea what was for supper in order to pick the wine.  Waiter had very limited English but we were fortunate to meet Alana, an intern here.  I ended up with a decent margarita and Norm a pineapple smoothie.  Food was good though and nicely presented.  We got back to our room and before long it was time to turn the lights out … until I checked the time … 7:57 pm …. I bet your grandchildren stay up later, lol!

Our porch swing … a front row seat to nature … saw monkeys from a distance, an agouti (a good sized rodent with the cutest bum), and a blue Morpho butterfly this morning. 


Sweet dreams of yesterday, floating in the calm flat morning waters of the Golfo Dulce.

Had our final goodbyes alter a number of pre goodbyes and mutual thank yous.  Different travellers on different paths making memories and sharing just a few moments in time together.  Very special….the web of connectivity … doesn’t happen all of the time but when it does…it sure is great. 

After a final delicious lunch it was time to get in the boat for the half hour crossing.  By this time there were some not so gentle waves.  The crossing was a little rough as our sturdy boat smacked the waves hard along the way. 

Our car was there just where we left it, and our journey down the dirt road began to Cabo Matapalo.  It appears Cabo Matapalo is not a town, but more like a surfing destination with a number of places to stay along the way.  A good place to break out my inner surfer girl, lol.  Let’s go surfing Norm!  Just kidding.


A final goodbye to Cheekie, the resident ‘half tame’ parrot at DQ. 




February 21, 2024 - Encanta la Vida, Cabo Matapalo, Osa


"Day is Breaking"


Up at 5:45 am and as I opened the door, a cute bummed agouti scurried by.  The Howler Monkeys have been up for awhile, but something has got them agitated again.  Apparently it’s only the males that emit the booming voice.  The Macaws have arrived, now the chorus of the smaller birds light up the semi dark jungle with their morning songs.  Nothing you can see, only hear in waves.  Including the human neighbours, sigh.  
Not sure what today will bring besides sunrise!  

A few photos from yesterday.  

And a few from this morning.



"Never Just Another Day in the Jungle"

The scream of a distressed animal was piercing.  Life in the jungle gives and it takes. 

Not long after there was a thud on our roof, and the scattering of little feet….what was there?  The jungle is most alive in the hours just before dawn and in early morning.  The sound of the birds as we’re lying in bed is incredible. 

Now what does it do in a rainforest jungle?  Rain!  The sound of the rain on the roof is almost deafening.  So glad I didn’t go to the beach.


Speaking of the beach I thought I would go check out the surfers. We have 3 beaches in close proximity.  I walked the ‘road’ as that was different than the day before.  Walking the ‘road’ is just like a bigger trail through the jungle.   I easily found the turnoff to the black sand beach with beautiful big rolling waves.  No surfers.  So I found a beach trail to the next beach and I wasn’t disappointed.  But the waves here were breaking slowly so not much surfing going on.  Now I thought it would be easy to find my way back as I had visited Pan Dulce Beach before.  Pan Dulce means Sweet Bread.   But try as I did I could not find a way back through the Beach Yoga Shanti owned by our lodge.  So with no other viable option I retraced my steps.  An unexpected long walk back, but it was fun to see the beach side of the jungle, not so much fn being ‘lost’.  On the way back there were quiet Howler monkeys hanging out high up in a tree.  So hot by the time I reached the pool I jumped right in after messaging Norm.

Our pool area gets a little busy at times as ‘neighbouring tourists’ staying off the property drop in for a drink or a smoothie and use the pool.  A way for our hotel to increase its revenue.  I didn’t realize there was a crab in the pool swimming with me until Norm came along, lol.  A real crab!  At night the paths were full of wondering crabs looking for some fun in the moonlight no doubt.  A good flashlight is essential in the jungle! 

Food here is impressively good.  Delicious and nicely plated.   No choice other than dietary restrictions.  It’s a small lodge so meeting people is fairly easy at the pool and at the dining area.  We’re really happy with our choice and glad to be staying 4 nights.  Super comfortable accommodation for us.  No air conditioning but good overhead fans in the room.  So wonderful to sleep well with no noisy cold air con!  It’s perfect.  Solar powered but no restrictions on its use.  Mostly cold showers but sometimes really hot if you’re at the ‘right’ time.




February 22, 2024 - Encanta la Vida, Cabo Matapalo, Osa


"The Day of the Monkeys"


Walking back from dinner on Wednesday night we could hear the rustle all along the pathway and surrounding rocks … the rustle of dozens and dozens maybe even hundreds of crabs everywhere.   A crab orgy?   By the next morning they were gone … all gone.

Norm hadn’t been to the beach yet … so he decided to join me on a short walk to the beach.  The path is made of rounded cobblestones and is hard on the knees for Norm but he was glad he went. Pan Dulce Beach…. Such a pretty place to sit for a bit. Just before the beach is an old stone like table and chairs under the cool shade of palm fronds and almond trees. 


While Norm gazed out to the ocean I decided to find out where I went wrong the day before.  How did I get so lost?  I came within 50 feet of the turnoff sadly.  That’s always frustrating to be s close … but lesson learned.  As soon as we returned a dip in the pool was certainly refreshing.  It’s so hot!  There we met Lisa, a lady professor of the world, living in many cities throughout her lifetime.  Interesting chat.  She spoke of moving to Italy or Portugal if a certain someone gets in politically.


We had intended to take a ‘sloth tour’ but decided on doing it some other time.  The hour long drive is rough, on a dirt road and it just didn’t seem worth the effort.  That turned out to be a wise decision. 


We had a nice visit from the British yoga teacher and his partner, another Lisa.  We chatted for awhile, such nice people.  Shortly after they left the chaos started. 

Turns out that a lot of monkeys arrived all at once…it was a monkey jam!  In the trees everywhere.  I think it was two different types Spiders and Howlers.  The Howlers are especially territorial and they bellowed their likely displeasure at seeing a possible other troupe of monkeys nearby.  They, the Howlers, gathered in the tree above our cabina, affectionately called 'The Love Shack'.   There was so much going on it was like a noisy multi ring circus.  There were the big guys, the moms, the little ones and even babies all in our huge tree.  Surprisingly a number of ‘non guests’  even ‘invaded’ our space trying to get a photo, lol.   But we had another back private patio, that was only ours, with a phenomenal view.  What an experience!  The sound absolutely incredible!  Monkey chaos!


You can see by the base of the tree how large it was.  Video will be sent separately.

Our last dinner at Encanta was a coconut curry with shrimp for Norm and mine decorated in pockets of cooked beets and chopped fruit. 

As we slept we could hear just a few soft monkey grunts, enough to know they were having a sleepover just above us.




February 23, 2024 - Encanta la Vida to Jardin de Los Monos, Matapalo

"Encanta la Vida to Matapalo"


From our room in The Garden of the Monkeys we wake up to the sound of the surf pounding the beach and the multitude of chattering birds here at Matapalo.  The toucan at the top of a huge tree can barely be seen but certainly can be heard.  Strangely enough we left Cabo Matapalo yesterday to drive 4 hours north to another Matapalo.

That day we were up early to check on the monkeys … of course they were also up before dawn with their big bellowing voices thundering from their fav tree.  There were still some there but many had gone when I went for my early 6am walk to Backwash Beach.   Backwash Beach was beautiful at sunrise as the rays of early morning sun flushed the beach with a golden glow.


The walk back through the trail was effortless now that I knew the way.  No surfers about, no one except a few yoga practitioners at our yoga shanti.  An early delicious  breakfast ... a version of Eggs Benedict with avocado for me on a half of a thick homemade bun.  Very good!  Always served with fruit and a smoothie type of drink.

Then it was off to the local school to make a number of kids very happy.  We were fortunate to have the company of well spoken Alana a young intern at Encanta.  She was born in CR but has complete fluency in German, Swiss dialect,  English and of course Spanish.   First it was the small group of kindergarteners, then the larger group of combined grades with kids from ages 6 to 12.  Many great reactions, all excited and our efforts seemed very appreciated.  Afterall how many tourists come to bring gifts to the kids.  All the kids looked like a million dollars in their school uniforms with immaculately groomed hair.  But we were told some of the kids parents would not have much money to spend on non necessities like stuffed toys … nor access to stores that would sell them.  Needless to say they seemed to be a huge hit!


So a quick return to the lodge where we paid our bills and said our numerous goodbyes.

It was raining so no last minute cool off swim.  Then back down the potholed dirt road until we hit pavement an hour later.  On our way we stopped at another lodge ... more expensive, more resort like but very nice.  No hammock, no nice particularly comfy chairs but a very nice room with a gorgeous private outdoor shower surrounded by plants.  But still … no hammock. 

Then back up the very steep driveway and on the road again.  We arrived at Matapalo after 3 more hours approximately with a stop for a few groceries.  Teddy a new employee got us settled in.  He seems like he will be a great addition to helping out staff.

Teddy is from Porto Viejo, on the Caribbean side.   We opened the door to our unit, to a wonderful welcome.  Now here 4 times.  Home sweet home!






February 24, 2024 - Jardin de Los Monos, Matapalo

"Loving Life in Matapalo"


What sound will be the wake up call this morning?  Something, a bird or rodent, was making a squeaky toy noise but by the time I closed the windows and put the AC on the noise had stopped.   No identity.  Maybe tomorrow… but now back to yesterday. 

Yesterday I started the morning walk down to the beach to watch the waves.   I took a quick check for sloths but clearly I missed them all.  We have 6 sloths just off the property including 2 babies, and two different species identified by their colouration and number of toes.  Letikka was surprised to find a 3 toed sloth as they are less common here.

The beach was beautiful and stretched in both directions as far as the eye could see.  A virtually empty beach with only a few on it. 


Soon it was time for breakfast. I ordered Dutch pancakes accompanied by a watermelon smoothie.  The design of a monkey on the pancake made it extra special. 

A couple of gorgeous toucans dropped in for a visit and hung out in the garden for a bit.

Several swims were to be had on such a scorching day and a few showers to quell the heat.  Most people were out for the day so our place was very quiet.

Mid afternoon the white faced monkeys showed up to entertain with their crazy antics and attitude. 


Our first video call with Katrina and Jett was amazing.  Such a sweet baby ….mostly slept or stretched, showed us his pecks, did a ‘beach pose’ and then fell back asleep again.  All the while never opening his eyes. The photo is from a few days ago.
 
It will be wonderful to hold him when we return.


It wasn’t long before we headed out for dinner at the famous Matapalo Supper Club where there is no written menu or prices posted but you always leave stuffed and always pleased.  We were welcomed back like old friends.  It’s not a place to rush in to get a meal and then leave, it’s a process.  Matapolo Supper club….where the wine is very good and an ample serving poured.  I love savouring a nice glass of wine first and not feeling rushed.  There is no rush here. 

Because I had some nasty gastro issues yesterday I felt lucky enough to be able to even have a glass of wine.  Only homemade bread and tzatziki for me last night.  Thankfully easily digested. 

The But Norm had the full steak experience!  Tenderloin with black peppercorn sauce.  He said “Life doesn’t get better than this”.  It was beyond delicious!







February 25, 2024 - Jardin de Los Monos, Matapalo

"Always fun to wake up to a drunken chicken, lol"


Woke up at 530 to the sounds of I believe the Costa Rican Drunken Chicken (Grey Cowled Woodrail) … I kid you not!  Each morning brings different bird sounds to enjoy.  Fun to take out the bird app and explore.  Great Kiskadee and the Bright Rumped Atilla birds were two it identified
Such a joy to listen to the orchestra! 

Pics in order starting with the Drunken chicken.

A quiet day today.  A few swims, lots of down time, a short sloth hunt, a sunset down at the beach….that about sums up the day.   No monkeys today.  No toucans today.  We had a nice chat with Letikka about the new plans for building and their new land purchase in the mountains.  Probably planning for the day when retirement draws near.  We talked a little about the surrounding neighbours and their impact and about the nearby land becoming eventually park land.


Sunset wasn’t the best but always enjoyable. Afterwards we headed to supper.  Trying to find this hole in the wall put o restaurant was a bit of a challenge but we eventually succeeded.  By now it was very dark.  My burrito was very good and just the right amount of food.  I ordered a Pina Colada and to my surprise I also received a small leftover pitcher….two for one!  I must have been a good girl today! 


A brief rain, something walking across our roof, dogs barking and off to bed.






February 26, 2024 - Jardin de Los Monos, Matapalo

"Some Mornings I just Want to be a Sloth"


Morning doesn’t always come easy especially after two glasses of wine last night.  I struggled to get out of bed to hear the ‘early riser orchestra’ but after the first set I tumbled back into bed for a little more welcome shut-eye.   

Yesterday was another super relaxing day.  Breakfast was another Dutch Pancake.  We said goodbye to the honeymoon Italian/Polish couple who were off to a new location Manual Antonio Park.  Manual Antonio although an animal haven is a multitude of people Mecca … not our thing because of that.  It truly is a zoo with aggressive scammers trying to get you to park your car in their lot which may not be anywhere even close to the park.  After a brief visit to the town years ago we promptly left.  There, we are told monkeys have even learned to steal from tourists, lol!  Stealing hats, phones, sunglasses … whatever.

It was so exciting to find my own sloth in the tree … a first!  A three toed beauty…if only he/she would look at me.  Norm says he heard Letikka say there were ten nearby sloths to her knowledge.  No monkeys came to visit unfortunately.  But I did get to enjoy the sparkle show of a cluster of fire flies … quite beautiful in the darkness of the night.

The scorching hot day was filled with a number of swims, and a few ‘wish I could’ve swims.  The noisy German guests having taken over the pool.  We are very fortunate to have a shady terrace in the afternoon so very grateful for that.  The surrounding pool terrace is actually so hot it is unbearable without shoes.  From the pool you can see a multitude of pretty orange, yellow and white butterflies sipping the sweet nectar from their favourite flowers.  So pretty.  

Supper was a return to the Matapalo Supper Club.  Norm, out of curiosity, asked Daniel, the chef, how big his steaks were.  Of the 4 different cuts 2 were 400g, 1 was 350g and 1 was 300g.   Big portions.  Although his mouth was watering for another steak he decided to wait until Tuesday night and ordered a creamy shrimp pasta which was quite enormous.  I had a delicious thin crust pizza with a hint of gorgonzola cheese which makes them special.  

We closed the restaurant except for the same 4 noisy Germans who were actually quiet at dinner.  We chatted with a couple of well travelled people from Kentucky.  It was fun listening to their experiences as CR first timers in the rough and ready town Puerto Jimenez (where we parked the car to go over to Dolphin Quest).  It was a bit of a surprise for them.  They had travelled to Greece and Thailand too so there was lots to talk about and share.  We have met many wonderful interesting people on this trip, many from the US.  Several from the US considering their options elsewhere dependent on which was the political scepter swings.

It was a late night … to bed at 10 pm.  We felt like night owls, lol.

A few pics from the day.  Notice the good size pour of the wine.  Malbec.  Waves are high in Matapalo, water is super warm..  The only thing that could make a CR tangerine sunset better is comfy chairs and a glass of wine.  





February 27, 2024 - Jardin de Los Monos, Matapalo

"Time to Move On From Our Beach Sloth Nest"


Up at 5:30 am just as the morning sky turns into a yellow haze but all else is dark.  The little birds are singing loudly, something is rustling  through the dense leaves of the large neighbouring tree.  As I’m listening, sounds like a squirrel to me.  Yesterday a large black squirrel scampered across a wire the monkeys often use.  The experience is much different for squirrels.  When he got to the middle he used his tale frantically for balance. Yikes!   What an acrobatic act, wish I had a photo.  

Today is moving day, a 3 hour drive to San Jose.  We are staying at the same place as when we arrived.  

Hopefully they have their price figured out and don’t try to charge us for breakfast again.  I really want to like this new place.  

But there is so much to do before we go.   Checklist ... drop in on the sloths, walk to the beach, watch the pelicans skim over the waters edge, view and hear the 5 foot breakers crash onto the shoreline, breath in the Pacific Ocean salty air, listen to the Great Kiskadee (the squeaky toy), watch for Toucans.  So much to do.

Last night at the Matapalo Supper Club I begged for a small portion of their veggie cream pasta.  Yes, yes, Darleni said, no problem.   A heaping plate that could easily feed 3 arrived.  Norm had his thick steak, a tenderloin, cooked to perfection over the open fire.
  
As we have noticed before sitting at our table near the front, even though the restaurant was not totally full, people were turned away.  

The German pool hogs left yesterday morning so there were lots of cool off swims on my part.   Lots of watching the dance of the butterflies flitting from flower to flower from the edge of the pool.  Matapalo is dreamy … the ocean so nearby, the jungle still thick and full of wildlife.  It is barely a beach ‘town’ with only a few restaurants and one mini mart.  Some day it will change but for now it’s ours.  Sunsets are gold standard! Actually orange.

Had a nice chat with Monika, one of the new guests from Germany.  Extensively toured the northern central part of Costa Rica both Pacific and Caribbean sides.  But Matapalo was as far as south as they got. Interestingly they experienced significant rain and at times cool temperatures (in the mountains).    Just as I was exiting the pool Teddy (the new employee) came by to announce the monkeys were coming.  They are such a hit!  Such athletes!  Not as good a show as I have seen before but I would bet Norm got some good photos.  Watching them jump dangerously out of trees, free falling, until they grasp the next tree at the last moment … never gets old.

May we once again return to Costa Rica.  It has everything to offer and that much  more for us.  Pura Vida lifestyle!  





February 28, 2024 - Jardin de Los Monos to Guacima Escondida, Guacima

"Bye bye Matapalo!"


Bye Bye Matapalo!  My fav Pacific beach ‘town’!  May you stay the way you are forever!  Wild, free and quiet yet with comforts too.

It’s early, not even 5:15 am … and nature’s orchestra is in full swing.  The conductor, Costa Rica’s National Bird, the Clay Coloured Thrush….looks just like a Robin.  Of course being so close to the city, the hum of traffic starts early.  Then there are a few planes taking off or landing of course. 

The start of today was both lucky and unlucky.  My (wedding ring) gold necklace broke.  Very lucky that when it broke it landed on the floor and was easily found.   Could have happened anywhere at anytime!    Norm says the price of gold is very high at the moment….there goes Spain’s drink budget, lol! 

Our last morning in Matapalo also started early, there was a ‘list’.  I was a little surprised when I suggested we go for a 7:00 am romp in the waves that Norm enthusiastically said “Let’s Go!”.  The beach was so quiet and so stunning.  The water so delightfully warm. The waves large so we played in the whitewash.   The only other person at the beach at that time was a lady writing a message in the sand.  Surprisingly she offered to take our photo….so very kind!


Norm’s goal was to photo pelicans in flight.  One was cooperative and he got a nice photo.  But he really wanted a cluster of pelicans skimming the water’s edge.  He waited, we waited, he waited some more then turned back, disappointed.  Suddenly, out of nowhere a group of 10 pelicans in formation silently and swiftly flew inches away from the waves … but Norm’s back was to them.  No photo.  He was not happy, lol!  Just a teaser to return another year.

Another Dutch pancake breakfast, this time decorated with a heart.  Dama said in broken English it was because we were leaving.  Dama does both housekeeping and breakfast.  A special day for her…  as her daughter was in the hospital in labour awaiting the birth of her child!  Of course we had saved a few Beanies for her.

Breakfast was interrupted for a chance photo op with a sloth momma and baby in a nearby tree.  So fabulous!  I am surprised how much they seem to change location depending on the time of day.  Then back to breakfast and talk about the 4 German friends’ camping trip to South Africa.  Yes they camped rather than stay in lodges!  They had a tent on top of their rental vehicle!  Quite adventurous! 

Always fun to play where’s the sloth …


Soon it was time to say goodbye and hit the road.  Bye bye sweet Matapalo!  May you never change!

Our 3 hour drive was uneventful except for the large number of emergency vehicles we encountered going the opposite direction.  We stopped for a little stuffed toy shopping for our new grand babies, and nice wooden bowl and big bag of coffee for Brian’s family as part of the thank you for looking after Duke. 

We very easily found our place for the next two nights.  This time we have the deluxe unit with an outdoor shower full of plants!  Really good value for the money $106 US incl. breakfast!  Guacima Escondida ….a small ‘country’ inn near the airport.  After a quick supper of Bitterballen and a Hamburger for Norm and Aztec tomato soup with avocado and crunchy corn tortilla chips for me, we hit the sack asleep by 8:30 pm!
  





February 29, 2024 - Guacima Escondida, Guacima

"Pura Vida Baby!"

It’s time to go.  Time to fly on those silver wings.

Here, the Robin lookalikes (Clay Coloured Thrushes) sing all night long.  Perhaps they are super happy that yesterday’s motorcycle races are over.   Not knowing the future.


Our flight is now leaving a few hours later so while we lose airport lounge time we gain a Costa Rican breakfast.

Yesterday was a pure relax day, a repack day, a blog catch up day, a refresh day.  Perfect way to end the vacation with a Pina Colada and a swim.  The breeze cools even a 30 degree day down. 


The only downside is we are located by a motorcycle race track, who knew??  For most of the day I thought it was just a lot and I mean a lot of traffic!  So I asked.  To my surprise it was race day, all day.  Not every day but on this particular day!  Our luck!

But we coped by playing music or videos on ear phones.  Finally they stopped and once again we could hear the chickens cluck and the beautiful birds sing. 


Back to having a Costa Rican breakfast rice and beans, plantains, fried eggs and squeaky cheese.  Turns out that two other couples who previously didn’t know each other became fast friends after sharing a couple of the same accommodations and the same flights to and from England.  It’s weird when that happens…almost as if their destiny was to meet.  We talked about the beautiful forests and history of mushroom picking, so common among Polish people ... almost a seasonal national past time from what she was saying.  She was a psychologist who emigrated to Britain with her doctor husband who sadly passed away young from a fall while hiking.  People’s stories are so very interesting!  And how they overcome adversities in their lives … so fascinating!  Everyone has a story! 


Once again a fabulous trip!  Pura Vida!