August 28 / 29 - Halifax to Athens to Corfu to Pelecas Country Club, Pelekas
August 30 - Pelecas Country Club, Pelekas, Corfu
First full day in Corfu … a do nothing day. To my surprise we both woke up at 7:00 am after sleeping straight through. The bed is super comfy but my back says otherwise sadly. Breakfast is an extensive buffet, something to look forward to each morning. So nice to sit outside to have breakfast, worth it to carry the tray outside laden with coffee, fresh orange ‘poison’ and plates of food. Quite the balancing act. I have a new appreciation of wait staff, lol.
In the afternoon we had a great relaxing swim time at the pool. The water temperature was excellent. Although we had a couple of very brief downpours the day was mostly sunny in between. The air temp very nice not too warm with a nice breeze. About 26 degrees or so. Dinner was in a Greek taverna, Stavros … a family run place right on the road with great reviews. Arriving at 7:00 pm we were the first ones. Our first waiter was probably 12 years old, who spoke English well… such a lovely young fellow. We had fun watching his little brother zipping around on his scooter with his sneakers flashing brightly coloured lights as he went by. That’s a really special part of Greek life … the family … fun to see. Before long the place filled up, seemed to be mostly Greek people. Plates and plates of food passed around and shared … wow … no one goes away hungry here. Lamb chops and Greek salads and fries were popular. No Greek potatoes though. My salad was enough for 4 servings … needless to say we have lunch for tomorrow.
August 31 - Pelecas Country Club, Pelekas, Corfu
After another filling breakfast I headed off for a short walk, past the large olive trees, the Italianesque hedge garden, the relics of old farm equipment from back in the day… towards the herd of goats and the white horses at the barn. Hard to believe we are only 10 km away from the hustle and bustle of the city, Corfu Town.
Although our intention was to go for a drive, some how between working on the blog and a delightful private swim with no one else around … the day just slipped by. Eventually we left for the beach. But which one to go to?
Might have been a Thursday but from a distance we could see they were still quite busy. The first beach we figured it would be too strenuous a walk from the parking place so onto the next. At Glyfydia Beach, we found a great place to park and off we went through the maze of beach loungers to find a spot on the sand. While Norm napped I did a beach stroll along the long stretch of mostly sandy coastline packed with sun worshippers.
Corfu, at first glance, is quite developed for tourism. Not quite the Greece we are used too. Still lovely in a different way. Kind of like a faded bloom. Not pristine like the Cyclades with the stark white buildings contrast with the blue highlights. More like Italy in many ways … a miss mash of building styles, old faded villas, graffiti, pine and olive trees, hilly, green, and lush but with bins of overflowing garbage here and there, not yet picked up. Still there definitely is a beauty there even if it is more in the past. But only first impressions … I’m curious to see and learn more. That’s the unique thing about Greece…how the various invaders have influenced the landscape and civilizations. For Corfu it’s a happy mix of Italian and Greek. French too.
Dinner was at “Jimmy’s” where we were ushered to our seats by none other than Jimmy. Well not the original Jimmy, as he was too young for the opened in 1970 restaurant. Maybe not even Jimmy but someone claiming to be Jimmy. This ‘Jimmy’ is an effervescent character who makes you feel ‘at home’ in his restaurant. I had a most delicious vegetarian moussaka. And much to Norm’s shock I ate it all … the whole enormous piece! Doesn’t happen very often when I leave a bare plate. No ‘gifts’ though. A quick 2 km drive to home … a little hard to find unmarked in the dark.
September 01 - Pelecas Country Club, Pelekas, Corfu
Along the way we encountered a majestic olive tree that was marked as being 1,500 years old! That was pretty cool! There we had a nice chat with a young couple on holidays from London. We passed quite a few beaches along the way but the water was not calm enough for us to swim. Beaches here seem to mostly have beach umbrellas and sunbeds catering to the ‘all day at the beach’ crowd. Of course there are always spaces for towels n the sand. At one beach we watched a dozen or more colourful windsurfers zipping around but curiously no swimmers.
Until we got to our last stop … finally the water was calm. But where was the easy access beach??? By then it was getting late and despite the photos no beach that we saw. Not that we looked hard. Time to eat and it was an uncertain journey home. The ‘beach taverna’ was set back in the trees and so very lovely…many gnomes and fairies lived in the garden, hiding amongst the foliage. A really lovely spot with a sea view.
We did feel we had to keep our eye on the time not knowing what the road would be like returning. We certainly were not going to do the same way home. This new route would take us past the southern resort areas packed with tourists. The beaches on this side were not great but the water had only the gentlest of waves. So glad we weren’t staying in these crowded communities.
We returned just as the sun had set to our heavenly quiet inland country place. Occasionally with a dog barking or a rooster crowing … you can almost hear the sound of the dragonflies translucent wings flapping, lol. The evening really cools off as the heat of the day dissipates. Perhaps it was the sugar/honey high from the Greek desserts purchased from the bakery we then consumed in our room, because we stayed up late and didn’t hit the sack until after midnight. When I finally awoke this morning it was 9:30 am and Norm was still asleep!
Note to self … glad we packed in lots of down time on this trip. Now to convince Norm, the ultimate travel planner!
September 02 and 03 - Pelecas Country Club, Corfu to Zakspitaki, Paxos
"Corfu to Paxos"
September 04 - Zakspitaki, Paxos
Our day slips Out of Africa into Paxos. Our room Zanzibar is definitely quirky. Shared with two other fellas (not Norm) you will meet in the photos. Not sure how I feel about the other two fellas. Our sunny weather has mostly left us and rain clouds will hover over us the next few days, or so they say.
Got to bed late. After a terrifying drive through the nearest town, Loggos, the narrow waterfront road bordering the harbour … past the table and chairs of the various restaurants along the way on one side, the harbour drop off on the other. Pedestrians amble aimlessly … after all they are on vacation. There is no room for another car and most certainly no room for error … but are we even allowed to drive here?? Yikes! But apparently, yes … no problem … even a bus does!
We notice it is definitely more expensive in Paxos upon first impressions. We decided to go inland to the nearest taverna for dinner, more authentic. We arrive to a quite lively busy taverna with as many cats as patrons, lol. Never in my travel life have I seen such well behaved cats. While each table seemed to have been adopted by their own cat perched on a spare chair, they quietly sat or slept while the world and the waiters whizzed by. Never begging. Norm enjoyed his first moussaka on the trip … portions were smaller here too, more normal. We chatted with a friendly British couple who had rented a windmill shaped villa for a week. Many people here rent houses or villas instead of hotel rooms, and come for a week or so for their holidays. Before we knew it we were the last ones in the taverna.
Just a quick drive home or so we anticipated. But then we heard the sound of a bazouka and acoustic guitar playing as we passed the second taverna. The melodious music beckoning us to stop. Of course we had to go in. A trio of talented Greek musicians were playing traditional Greek music. It was a lively scene … a few patrons singing along, large tables of diners all speaking Greek. A great way to have a night cap before heading to bed with the sounds of the bazouka still in my head. While chatting with the singer… she noticed our photo taking; while the other two musicians were still playing, a few older women got up to dance! What a night! Unfortunately this was their last night to play music for the season! So lucky for us to catch these sights and sounds before it was time to tuck in. No doubt though the music played on and on!
September 05 - Zakspitaki, Paxos
September 06 - Zakspitaki, Paxos
Dinner was a two step process as tables with shelter were in hot demand due to drizzly weather again. Our first attempt required a later reservation. At Dolos Taverna, apparently the oldest taverna on the island, food has gone more upscale in recent years than it’s past traditional Greek. My mushroom risotto being likely one of the newer additions. We briefly chatted with a couple from England who had been to Paxos many times … the first being 40 years ago. Their first trip not being so comfortable … yet they returned so many times since, as tourist conditions on the island improved.
It seems Paxos is not a one time island for many!
We arose to sunshine this morning. And another wonderful interesting breakfast. Always slightly different than the day before. Always tinfoil to take away leftovers. A friend of Helen’s came back with a load of apples from the mainland so everyday since we have been treated to variations of apple pie. This one a ‘mile high’ very impressive one. Photo on the blog later. We made plans with Helen for a wine hour tonight to meet the other British couple also staying here. That should be fun!
Photos: Norm after the delicious breakfast lying on the patio daybed; Finally the sun shone at breakfast; The beach … notice the beautiful rounded pebbles … and Norm before he saw the jellyfish; Raindrops in slow motion; Dolos Taverna; My 3 fungi risotto
September 07 - Zakspitaki, Paxos
September 08 - Zakspitaki, Paxos
🐠Our boat trip was amazing and good value for the price! It was all day and the captain was in no hurry to get us back. We even got a third swim in the aqua waters just before we docked. We got to see a few dolphins along the way too. 🐬🐬🐬🐬🐬🐬
We got to see a part of Paxos on its ‘wild side’ not accessible by car. As well as a long visit to the popular sandy beaches with their azure turquoise water of Anti-Paxos. There, after a long swim for Gayle and nap time for Norm, we had lunch in the shade of ‘tree umbrellas’. Slated wood ‘umbrellas’ on bare shellacked tree trunks. Works of art in their uniqueness I thought. I had Briam which I normally don’t order as I hate mushy overcooked veggies. Most often when I have ordered it in Greece this is how it is. Not here it was very fresh with heaping veggies, potato, red peppers, zucchini and eggplant cooked in a cherry tomato sauce. Sprinkled with fresh herbs. Very delicious and very filling!
At one of our swimming stops we moved onto an alternative as we all could see countless jelly fish in the water from the side of the boat. They are quite beautiful to see but not to encounter! Norm got a slight sting from one on one of the beaches, but luckily it was not a bad sting! ….Cause I know the cure for the bite of a jelly fish, lol and I’m sure you do too! 🤣
Off the boat we were so relaxed and wet we chose not to explore the port town/village of Gaios. But it looked welcoming and quite delightful!
For our last night for dinner in sweet Paxos we chose to return to Lila’s for a late night dinner. We parked the car in the ‘secret spot’ we were told about and entered the taverna from the back side ... it was busy, people were waiting for tables. But despite having no reservation we were welcomed and seated immediately. On one hand we felt bad for the others still waiting, but on the flip side we felt like VIPs, lol. Of course we hoped for more entertainment but it was not to be during the time we were there. Still it was lots of fun people watching, and enjoying the hustle/bustle yet relaxed feel of the place. Wait until you hear the baklava story ... it will be on the blog.
The next morning we had our last breakfast Helen had prepared. So much delicious food! I felt it was one of our best, most comprehensive non-buffet breakfasts. Such a special spot underneath the hanging wisteria and grapevine arbour looking out at the blue sea. The grapes just forming and the lavender blue wisteria flowers almost finished, their pea pod shells hanging and swinging in the gentle breeze.
It was off to the boat for an hour and a half easy ride over to the mainland where we will pick up the car and continue the journey and drive to the next island Lefkada. Lefkada is connected by a causeway to the mainland.
Sweet Paxos is indeed a special spot discovered now by many. Still its smallness met everything was close, and its villages so pretty. Still its smallness ensured that everything was not far away. Despite all the rental vehicles around and all the English accents it didn’t feel too crowded. Being that it is such a small island there was always the possibility of running into someone you met earlier. A beautiful island ..so glad we stayed there. Our B&B was a good choice for us although it was a very comfortable sleep I was troubled by bad dreams which woke me and left me with memories. Was it the haunting company of the ‘roommates???….I’ll never know. Nevertheless our Zanzibar room was unforgettable!
September 09, 2023 - Zakspitaki, Paxos to Lefkada, Theolos villages
"Kalimera! Kalispera! Depending on your place on the world clock!"
September 11, 2023 - Lefkada
Woke up again to the warm hug of the sun embracing the Ionians. This is the Greece I know and love! Another relaxing day watching the sailboats go up and down the harbour. All of a sudden it was 3:00 pm. Rather than a long drive to the west coast of Lefkada we chose to find a swim at a nearby beach, a few kms away. So beautiful and peaceful! Still there were umbrellas and a little canteen. I can only imagine the summer crowds! 10 euros for two basic beach loungers and an umbrella for all day. Seems pretty reasonable. But we chose to seek shade under the pine boughs instead. New protocol, scan the water for jellyfish before entering. Apparently there is a species of jellyfish, the Purple Jellyfish which is becoming increasingly more visible in the warm Ionian islands. Norm’s sting the other day resurfaced after a few day absence with a few raised welts. (seems better this morning with treatment.) I swam again while Norm napped … so easy to fall asleep with the caress of the sun. We were so glad we didn’t go further afield. Besides we had an early 7:15 pm dinner reservation at a more expensive waterfront restaurant.
The restaurant was definitely a favourite amongst the cats in the neighbourhood. We were seated at one of the small number of waterfront tables, as we requested. We watched the sailboats moored in the harbour, some people into shore for dinner and mused what it would be like the sail the Aegean. I suspect far more romantic in thought than reality, at least at times.
Our conversation also led to comparisons as to the different island groups but more specifically to Cyclades vs Ionian. Our observations (so far and I stress … so far).
SCENERY: The Ionians are certainly more lush, forests of pine and cypress. Busy with tourists in certain areas. Lots and lots of sailboats. Cyclades architecture … thumbs up. More Italian-like in the Ionians. Corfu … too much uncollected garbage. The barren dry Cyclades have their own special beauty too.
BEACHES: Beautiful blue and turquoise waters. Said to be warmer than the Aegean but not personally sure. Beaches tend to be longer than little coves (so far). Not necessarily where we swam though. Paxos beaches were fine but not outstanding. Anti-Paxos had 2 beautiful long sandy beaches … but developed for day use. Jellyfish … never saw them in the Cyclades. Not windy generally. Temperatures in the 30s here in Lefkada.
FOOD: A nod to the Ionians. A little more choice due to the Italian influence. Lots of cats … no one seems to mind or chase away. Lots of smokers. Lots of wasps at times.
Norm …you could also weigh in with your comments.
Overall, so far though I will still always love the Cyclades. Super glad to be visiting the Ionians though … they are beautiful!
Norm was particularly interested in the menu, me not so much. I played it safe by just ordering a Greek salad amongst their other salad offerings. Nothing appealed to me. I was not disappointed with my choice. And Norm thought his traditional beef dish was superb. A most delicious ‘gift’ of a geranium liquor followed.
What will today bring? We will just follow the sun. Our plans include a drive through the mountains to a few villages and to the west coast for a swim.
Note ….the beach actually had more people on it and umbrellas
September 12, 2023 - Lefkada
"Lefkada Road Trip!"
September 13, 2023 - Lefkada
"Last Day in Lefkada!"
⛱️ Our first beach was my least favourite. 🚖 I am getting used to the beaches all being developed …umbrellas, chairs etc. … but this one had bright yellow NY taxi paddleboats for rent, lol. 🚖 However the water is the same ... crystal clear gorgeous turquoise and warm even for me. Parking here at one lot was 10 euros …just a place to put the car! Luckily we found free parking elsewhere. Mykros Gialos Beach.
Next up was another beach about 20 minutes drive. Still busy … at least with our ‘schedule’ we miss the prime time people hit the beach. The parking was a little easier this time. A multinational beach … besides mostly Greek cars which may or may not be rental cars, we see plates from Romania, Bulgaria and elsewhere. At this time we rarely hear English spoken.
Shade at the end of the beach.
Water so very clear. No pics of it emerald green as it was that further out.
The water here looked an aqua marine colour from the shore but changed into emerald green when swimming at a little deeper depths. Just gorgeous! Little fish swimming all around us human swimmers. Even a few ‘dinner’ sized ones. Ammoussa Beach.
For dinner we went to a cute small village in the south, restaurants lining its boardwalk, sailboats moored all the way along. Clearly a low key tourist spot, lots of people around. Luckily we found a good place where Norm had a whole octopus for supper. I try to put the thoughts out of my mind as he enjoys it so much. He said one of the best, perfectly cooked ones he has had. I had Gemista … tomato and peppers stuffed with a rice and a few roasted potatoes on the side. Very good but not quite as good as my leftovers still in the fridge.
Photos of Syvota, a lovely little touristed village. Easy parking early in the evening.
We arrived home in the dark to eat some baklava and have lemon pie for Norm. And drink water, lots of water.
September 14, 2023 - Lefkada to Kefalonia, North Point Rooms 1953
"Kefalonia!"
We arrived after an hour and a half ferry ride from Lefkada and a 10 minute car ride to our accommodations North Point Rooms. Beautiful room … and facilities. Linda … all day yogurt and fruit, Bill … all day large cups of espresso plus decaf espresso … so good, like Italy. Really happy with our choice.
The facility comes with the shared part use of Benny, the affable Golden Retriever and 5 cats who gave up the hard life to be ‘house cats’. But at breakfast a couple of them beg like it’s their last meal ever. Old habits I guess and the fear of hunger. But a gentle but firm no sends them on to the next table. Ha! Ha! No problem for me, they just move on. They visit us at our secluded room but once again don’t bother us. We don’t feed them. But if only the wasps took no for an answer. But with the smell of burnt Greek coffee in little dishes, the smoke wafting in the air, they reluctantly scattered. The true pests here!
Last night we went to the local Taverna that even though we had a reservation … yes, a reservation at a Taverna! … we were seated at the worst table right at the roadside. Fortunately Norm spoke up and asked for, and received, another much better table. The Taverna quickly filled, mostly English voices filled the space around us. I was pleased with my choice of grilled veggies with a little Halloumi cheese and balsamic. Not oily at all … I am always reluctant with grilled veggies with the liberal use of oil. But these ones were perfect. Norm chose a traditional meat pie. The house wine was very good. A vast menu with a lot of ‘Italian’ choices too.
Looking forward to exploring the north end of the island today. Only 2 full days.
September 15, 2023 - Kefalonia, North Point Rooms 1953
Morning seemed to come early despite the cozy darkness of our stone encased room, history breathing through the walls. Cephalonia experienced a massive earthquake in 1953 ... actually it was four quakes which damaged almost every house on the island and killed 600 people. Many people left, but those who remained rebuilt Cephalonia from this tragedy from the ground up.
The coffee here may be out of a capsule machine but it is ultra delicious, and 24 hours. Breakfast is simple but delicious. Benny, the 13 year old dog and a few of the ‘free come with the house’ cats gather just in case crumbs drop.
When you enter the garden door and Northpoint you know you’ve come to a special place!
Mid afternoon we toured the nearest village, Fiskardo. Beautiful
spot with its softly painted houses and turquoise harbour filled with yachts.
Then it was off to the beach for a swim. Finally an unorganized beach! And a gorgeous one at that with its white sequential flat stones in layers surrounding a white pebble beach. The water colour … light aqua, olive green, then bright turquoise, turning deep blue further out. A few of the fish were double dinner sized….enough for two.
Our brand new beach blanket for two … actually much bigger than I thought. Big enough for three adults.
Norm had made a reservation at a sunset restaurant about 15 minutes drive. View of another beach Alati. Also the name of the restaurant.
Check out the new ‘free’ eyeglass holders so Norm won’t lose his glasses. Free … a gift.
Dinner was superb! Fresh tomato sauce on linguine pasta with a ball of delicious creamy burrata! And wonderful wine from a bottle … so much better than house wine but also more $$. Not to forget the margarita Norm surprised me with.
September 16, 2023 - Kefalonia, North Point Rooms 1953
"Kefalonia!"
Eventually we pulled ourselves out of relaxation mode and headed out to one of the most photographed beaches in Greece, Myrtos. Mountains sloping to the beach, white limestone chips pebbles and turquoise waters … a winning combination. A beach one and a half miles long. A slight haze in the air. Low key organization … beach chairs and canteen but no taverna. Super easy parking despite all the people. Perhaps people don’t stay here all day? Really glad we came … but after swims and a NN (Norm nap) we returned home.
The taverna we chose was surprisingly encased with plastic windows to cut the draft and noise of the road traffic I guess. Surprisingly it was just a little chilly there so for the first time I put on another layer. A family of cats provided entertainment from afar as they climbed amongst the taverna decor. Mother cat ever protective of her energetic acrobatic offspring.
The taverna was pretty quiet for a Saturday night … sorry no photos of the entertainment.
All in all It was an 18 goat day … the dramatic scenery and the ‘wild’ goats scrambling over the rocky mountainous terrain reminded us of Amorgos.
September 17, 2023 - Kefalonia, North Point Rooms to Kefalonia, Olivemare
Last morning at North Point, enjoying our breakfast. Uh oh someone, not Norm not me broke the coffee machine…so we had the back up coffee of the Nespresso machine. Still very good. Would have been a good photo of myself when I dozily went for my first cup and there was none…or so I thought, lol.
The people we encounter in Greece are so good hearted … when we lost a map and a tea towel somewhere in Fiskardo and returned the next day to the same busy store for a replacement … the clerk asked me why I was buying the same map and tea towel. Couldn’t believe she recognized me. I explained and she insisted that I only pay for the map, the tea towel was free. A gift to make my day just a little better. So sweet. Just one example of their kindness.
So on the road we go after our North Point goodbyes and one last look and smell of the secret garden and Benny scritches. Even the ‘free comes with the room’ cat came to bid his farewell to the ‘no food cheapskates’ … us.
From one end to the other is about one and a half hours. It was so hot in the car and I was half cooked, fried on the sun BQ. It was midway though the day’s journey, after being tortured by the sight of delightful pebble beaches, I really wanted to go for a swim … but instead I said nothing. Until I did … when there were really no good swimming sites to go to. Yet Norm turned the car around and before long we were swimming in the turquoise waters … never alone though. So sweet! He said I would regret it if I didn’t go for a swim. He was right … and you know how he likes to hear that, lol!
Olivemare is set amongst the olive trees and woods. It was built in 2009 with a very open architectural design with five or so private beach-style rooms with a great terrace including sunbeds.
Our non English speaking check-in person/chef was quite grumpy on our arrival. A reminder we must be good! Grumpy, and even grumpier when the door blew shut with our keys inside our room. Then there were three grumpy people, lol!
Our challenge during our stay was to make her smile! That I did at breakfast by giving her two thumbs up for the great breakfast. She grinned ear to ear … that, she understood.
Dinner was lovely at a somewhat near-the-sea taverna … it was pitch black when we arrived. We didn’t make a reservation so got a crappy table by the kitchen … until a wonderful table opened up in the ‘garden area’. Our waiter was kind enough to then send us there. We were both happy with our choices but there was so much food, We were even given the choice of oven potatoes or fries! Surprise!
Breakfast was extensive and special … and included many foods from the garden. I’m sure the eggs were as fresh as can be. We left the room open at night with just a screen to hear the quietness of the night and feel the evening coolness in the country. But early morning the roosters started calling to each other. Hopefully, each found themselves a hen, lol! Perhaps we will use the air con tonight!
September 18, 2023 - Kefalonia, Olivemare
Waking up to a beautiful morning! Sleeping is a little rough … air con does not work despite a repair yesterday, ceiling fan remote was broken by the previous guest, thus it was pretty hot. So we have now returned to letting the sounds of the country filter in … oh those roosters!! 🐓🐓🐓
Yesterday was a do nothing day. Breakfast. A swim in the pool. A FB chat with ‘the peeps’. A glass or two of afternoon wine. A required nap. And as darkness fell out to the village for dinner, no reservations. The nearest village, Katelios, was once just a fishing village that now has become a tourist spot too over the last 20 to 30 years. We chose to drive but likely an easy 15 minute walk. We got lucky in getting a prime table at the edge of the beach. The large restaurant, Maria’s, was busy but no reservations needed. My zucchini fritters were delicious, the oven potatoes … mushy and with a taste of chicken broth. I ate some but left the rest. Norm was very happy with his traditional Kefalonian lamb and vegetable casserole dish. We headed home under the dark night sky filled with twinkling stars.
September 19, 2023 - Kefalonia, Olivemare
Hallelujah to our working ceiling fan! A good sleep despite the charming sounds of the country.
September 20, 2023 - Kefalonia, Olivemare
So I thought I was being smart and did the blog the night before … but somehow I
lost everything. Most disappointing but I’m retreating to my island of
calmness, lol!
Morning has broken, but where is the sunshine? Clouds?
What are they? Where is the delightful warmth of the morning hug from the sun?
It’s gone to Paros you say, lol???
Yesterday we changed our routine and
got up and out earlier. It’s impossible to see all of Kefalonia in the time we
allotted, it’s a large island and we don’t want to be on the go all the time.
Definitely an island we would return to.
So the first priority is the
beach of the day. Looking at the map we chose our destination.
Now it was certainly not my favourite beach … stony and pebbly. But the warm beautiful turquoise water is pretty much the same everywhere. There was another secluded beach close by but only assessable by a crude, rough path it seemed. This beach was just along the roadside so easy accessible. A wonderful swim for us and a stone massage for Norm.
I decided that at every beach possible going forward I would like to
do a two minute garbage pickup. So I chose a small area and very quickly filled a
large brown paper bag full of blocks of styrofoam, coffee cups and water
bottles. It felt good to see this small area looking much more pristine. It
got me to thinking about if we all did this, what we could achieve. Maybe I
will do a post on a Greek travel group encouraging others???
The beach we
would have liked to go to but not possible for us.
After our swim we drove inland through a small gorge with towering rock faces , then through the pine, cypress and olive tree forests, to a small cafe recommended to us. The Olive Garden is a real Mom and Pop operation. Mom bakes the pies and works the kitchen while Dad serves. We decided on a spinach pie and a Greek salad to share. It was a lovely cool place to sit at a rustic old table and chairs underneath the shade of the surrounding olive trees. Her ‘pies’ are Kefalonia famous we were told so we had to have dessert. Her ‘pies’ are actually more like a tart but definitely not a cake as is typical here in Greece. They call cake ‘pies’. The lemon pie with ice cream was a delicious finish. I ordered an iced cappuccino which to my surprise I thoroughly enjoyed.
We returned to enjoy the ‘quiet’ of Olivemare as dusk approached. Then the dogs started, lol. It’s country. It’s now 9:00 pm and you could hear a mouse squeak … all is finally so calm … just the sound of crickets and a little road noise.
On to Ithaca Tuesday afternoon. It is wonderful leaving our
baggage in the trunk of the car as we travel island to island.
September 21, 2023 - Kefalonia, Olivemare
"Moving day"
On the road again, on the boat again. Cruising to Ithaca. But let’s back up a bit as that is not the start of the day.
You never know what surprises are in store for you when travelling … and certainly experiencing an earthquake was not one of them. The thought process of our brain rationalizing this strange event is most probably different for different people. But for me it was the roar of the ‘subway train’ underneath the olive orchard’. What??? Everything shook in that brief time … I did too. Somewhere in that 3 to 5 second event, the brain has processed it … an earthquake. All four of us at breakfast looked at each other wide eyed, ready to flee, but glued to our chairs in fear. Our host appeared shortly after and confirmed what had happened. While little tremors may be a common occurrence, larger ones like this, are not. Our thoughts drift to the Big One here in Kefalonia that killed more than 600 people in 1953, and the most recent large one in Morocco causing much devastation and loss of life.
We left a little later than usual as checkout time was flexible, lucky for us but unfortunately didn’t leave us much beach time at all. Back through the silver green olive groves and the lush cypress forest, to Sami where we were to catch our ferry. Then on to crescent shaped Anti-Samos beach for a very quick swim. It was so beautiful … best of all the sunbeds were free! But no time for that. The beach was covered with slippery white rounded stone, the warm water seemed extra turquoise, and clear. Of course I wanted to stay but only time for a quick dip … or so we thought. Back in the car after the quickest dip ever and to the port.
Getting to the ferry we seemed to be early…not much happening. As it turns out the ferry was 40 minutes late and not in any hurry to get to Ithaca, our next island. We easily found our way to our little house where Helen was waiting for us to show us around. I think we will really enjoy the outdoor space … our own good sized infinity pool, two balconies, and lots of seating … if the weather cooperates. That is a big if. Remember Ithaca is a green island.
Supper was at Vathy, the closest town and the port town. Pretty town it seems ringed with restaurants around the harbour. Still enough tourists around. We needed to buy some groceries but the bigger market had little that we wanted. Groceries will have to be tomorrow’s job.
We ate in a traditional Greek taverna but missed our seat directly by the water by 2 seconds. Dang! Oh well the food tastes the same wherever you sit. Norm was craving for, can you guess? If you guessed lamb or octopus you would be wrong. Linda would have been in envy of this village sausage. Never have I ever seen one so big and so long, lol! Juicy too apparently!
The day’s events really tired me out … made me feel unsettled all day … yet grateful for my life. I even left some wine behind unfinished.
Photos: of Anti-samos Beach … also had a few tavernas with free sunbeds; The most beautiful turquoise water!; Norm on the ferry to Itahaca; Pebble beach
September 22, 2023 - Kefalonia, Olivemare to Ithaki, Eumaeus Ithaka Villas
"Ithaca Odyssey Continues"
Good morning Ithaca or Ithaki! (written this am)
From our main balcony we are surrounded by thick green forests of mostly cypress, pine and olive trees. Since we are as high as the birds fly we can see the calm waters of the cove below us, not yet turquoise in the early morning sun. Our beach looks like it could be sand but I doubt it. Which suits me, the non-napper, just fine! A little uninhabited islands sits alone in the bay. Off in the distance there appears to be several restored windmills likely converted to living quarters and one crumbling windmill or perhaps an ancient look out tower at the very top of the hill.
Directly across from us is a more barren version of Ithaki with its patchy green mountain and our no service, cell service towers. We wave to the towers and send a message…please restore! No one listens.
A few fishing boats are still in the bay, but now headed home. No sailboats yet. No wind. Around the next by is Vathy, the main town. Not just a tourist town where everyone returns to Athens for winter but a well lived in town.
A few cars drive by but all is quite quiet at this time except for the faint chirping of the little birds. So peaceful, so idyllic!
Today’s accomplishment was learning the coffee machine after finally obtaining the right capsules after searching long and hard 3 supermarkets. But yesterday after a morning Nescafé we had to leave this paradise for town to grab supplies and for me a delicious latte. Now I can make my own.
Our ‘swim of the day’ was at Filopetis Beach, about 3 km away on very narrow twisty roads . So worth it when we got there though . Gorgeous white rounded pebble beach, stunning bright turquoise water. In the clear water I could see several colours of different fishes. The black coloured fish were definitely nibblers, lol.
We returned for a quick shower before heading to town for a pizza supper. We chose a restaurant right on the water. Lots of red checkered tables available.
While the view of the harbour and pastel coloured houses was wonderful … the pizza was not up to par. Toppings were fine but the cardboard like crust needed a new recipe.
Back at our little villa Norm enjoyed a limoncello under the stars. My turn to fall asleep.
September 23, 2023 - Ithaki (Eumaeus Ithaka Villas)
"Ithaki"
Woke up this Sunday morning to internet on our upstairs balcony. It will be interesting to see how long it lasts and if it lasts! (It didn’t.)
Kalimera Ithaki!
Sure is nice having your very own refreshing pool! Norm’s very fortunate as he is travelling with his own barista these days. Two shots of espresso lungo with heated milk, coming right up. Now if only he had a pastry chef, lol. But we did get pastries the day before. We enjoyed going nowhere, and had our breakfast with Norm’s freshly squeezed poison … errr … I mean orange juice, lol! Greek yogurt too. Followed in due course by a swim,
Eventually we decided to go for a short drive to scout out some beaches. Gorgeous mountain scenery with the indigo and turquoise blue sea far below.
We then travelled a very narrow one lane dirt with loose rocks and a drop off where there would be no coming back from, no guard rails and only a few places to pull over if another car was coming. Would Linda really like this death defying road we said? But she would surely like the view. (Not a photo of the road)
No beaches were accessible to us so it was back to a roadside beach we had seen earlier. The beach was stony with stands of seaweed, not the best….but oh that clear clean turquoise water! There were different little fish scurrying about. Best to keep moving as there were the ‘nibblers’ awaiting opportunities. We were lucky enough to watch schools of little fish jumping in choreographed unison, their silver skin shining like metal for a brief second. So why would fish just jump out of the water? Later, near the shoreline, we witnessed why…chased by a much larger fish trying to gobble up the little ones.
By travelling in very shallow waters it was much harder for the larger fish to navigate. It was gulping down a few before heading.
We headed home for a shower and a quick turn around to our restaurant for internet and wine before ordering dinner. We watched the coming and goings of the yachters and sail boaters. There sure are a lot of rich people in the world. It must be very expensive to rent a good sized island hopping boat. So many people doing it though or bringing their own boat to Greece from elsewhere. Not knowing anything about sailing but it would seem the Ionian islands would be a good choice…less wind, more protected perhaps, and several islands in close proximity. But what do I know?
We chose to share some fava dip and tomato ‘balls’ … so good. Norm went with Greek meatballs this time…more like football shaped meat ‘balls’. We met a family from Australia where the Grandpa was from Ithaki originally. Over his lifetime he has only returned 4 or 5 other times apparently.
Back home, we ‘collected a rock’, drank a limoncello nightcap. before finally tumbling into bed.
September 24, 2023 - Ithaki (Eumaeus Ithaka Villas)
"Ithaki … Never on a Sunday … say what?
I had a lovely blog prepared and then poof it was gone! Trying again.
⛵️⛵️⛵️🌬️🌬️🌬️
Did the gods of sailors and wind want to prove me wrong about my comment regarding little wind in the Ionians? Well it was true for us … until last night. When the God of Wind arrived … there was no sleeping (for me) as the shutters to our little house were banging and clanging. Did the God of Sailors take offence to my possible deduction that many of these sailors were more like day sailors than adventurers? Clinging more to port or with sails down, than ‘full sheets to the wind’.
I do note that despite the good winds today many sailors continued to motor instead of hoisting their sails. Not sure why of course.
For our ‘swim of the day' on Sunday we went to a beach near the town of Frikes. It wasn’t the perfect beach to go ‘rock collecting’ as it was so close to the road and with perfect visibility with its transparent aquamarine waters. But freedom called our name and we listened. The swim was wonderful! Well … except for the ‘biter’ which sent Norm scurrying back to the beach for protection. I cautiously stayed in for awhile longer hoping ‘the biter’ wouldn’t find me. He didn’t. Going freaky in frike … seemed appropriate! lol
We decided it might be fun to do a ‘progressive dinner’ and head to the village of Frike where a cute blue and white Greek seaside tavern awaited us. The wind was picking up by this point but still not yet strong. We had a few appetizers ... tzatziki and saganaki cheese. Roamed around the internet a bit then headed back home on a spectacular road.
Ithaki reminds us somewhat of Amorgos only more forested. Dramatic mountain scenery, spectacular drives, lots of goats, and a wild and free spirit. We’re apparently at the end of tourist season here. But there are still a lot of sailors out and about!
While the sound of a progressive dinner sounded appealing we bailed. Watermelon and breadsticks for a late night snack before a night swim in the cool pool water. Luckily our neighbours weren’t home until later.
September 25, 2023 - Ithaki (Eumaeus Ithaca Villas)
We chose to swim in another area of the island at a roadside beach. Not my favourite but easy access, clean with beautiful gorgeous water. Some people, no facilities. No fish to speak of really either. And no biters! I swam and swam while Norm napped and napped. I even threw pebbles at him gently … he was off in dreamland no doubt with a Greek Goddess, lol. He did not awake until I finally said … we need to go … but really I meant I need to go. So it was back to the little stone house and a shower. We noted the white caps forming on our pool. We could feel the weather changing.
Before heading to the restaurant we decided to do the short hour long loop around the mountains and sea on the far side of Ithaki. The views were outstanding, the after sunset colour were not. We missed sunset as we were exploring one of the old villages and slowly making our way along. We passed Linda’s ‘dream’ driving road … you know, the mountain-side, sky high, one lane, bumpy dirt road where one mistake would be … “See you in heaven Bill”. Still trying to process that one, lol! But you like, what you like …
The restaurant with its beautiful hillside view of the bay could easily accommodate us, which was a pleasant change. So many boaters in town, and tourists in the other islands it seemed reservations for the most part were the best idea. Can’t imagine in peak season … must be crazy busy.
Ithaki is such a gorgeous island … but must love pebble beaches for the most part. We think we may of had a more sandy beach that we could see from our little stone house but the beach for us would have entailed a bit of a walk the way the parking was. We both fell in love with Kefalonia and Ithaki and would return in a heartbeat. We really liked both Paxos and Lefkada but both being smaller seemed to have so many tourists. Very beautiful too though. Paxos in particular had lovely villages. Jury is out on Corfu … verdict later.
September 26, 2023 - Ithaki to Corfu (Merchant's House)
"Moving Day Woes and Woo hoos?"
Here we are now back in Corfu waking up to sunshine and tucked away in a quiet mountain village ... quite the journey from Ithaki. Actually our mountain village is quite unique … it’s the oldest settlement in Corfu. During the day there are tourists exploring the town’s ruins and having lunch in one of the six tavernas here. But as night falls and most tourists leave, this ghost town is mostly ours.
No pool here as they are not allowed as it is a historic property. Heaps and heaps of character though. Run by a lovely Dutch/Aussie combo. The summer fires came close to their doorstep…luckily they were spared. Lucy, the person who cleans our room was not as lucky in her town only a few kms away.
So all during the night there was lightening … sometimes bolt lightening, sometimes sheet lightening … rain. Not much sleep to be had. We decided to rise early to pack and have the barista make us a last coffee on the balcony of our little stone house. Soon we were off into town to the bakery for a spinach pie to go. Ahead … One 3 hour ferry ride, a two hour drive and another 1 1/2 hour ferry to Corfu.
The ferry was 15 minutes late leaving the dock, and 50 minutes late arriving in port on the mainland!!! Not sure how this could be … the sea was calm. This presented a possible problem getting to our next ferry a 2 hour drive away.
Then there were the adorable road hazards to stop and slow down for. The slow drivers also we encountered as well. We had to get gas and the lovely old lady that served us was clearly having deep pain in her back and could hardly move, let alone quickly. We made it to the car rental where Yiannis was waiting for us and after the quickest inspection ever whisked us to the port.
OMG! Yiannis was pleading our case to the agitated ferry workers who were screaming in Greek. The ferry was a second or two from leaving. I jumped on board … Yiannis had my backpack … Norm limped along and hobbled on board. Yiannis threw my backpack to the worker just as the ‘gang plank’ was raised. Memories of that poor fellow who lost his life while jumping on board and being pushed off. We were seriously very grateful though to everyone who allowed us to board against their better judgement perhaps … Grey hair power maybe???
Although there was a ferry one hour later … this would have meant driving in the mountains in the dark. Which we had to do for a short time as dusk turned into the darkness of light. We had underestimated how soon we would lose the sun in the mountains. Definitely not a fan of driving on narrow mountainous roads in the dark especially when the end-zone is not entirely clear. Where is our village, our ‘ghost town’ as it turned out! But we made it! The gods were with us!
Although we may have wanted to crawl into bed we chose to fill our bellies. Down the original cobblestone path a short distance was an enchanting taverna still open! The gods were with us again!
"The Merchant’s House …Hanging Out With The Ghosts"
September 28, 2023 - Corfu (Merchant's House)
"Albania… a mystery destination… but never far away in North Corfu"
It’s interesting watching the quiet ‘pre-tourist’ village before the soon-to-happen onslaught of half-day trippers coming for a lingering lunch and a walk about. I wonder how many Old Perithia ghosts tag along with day trippers perhaps making fun of this one or that one … I can only imagine.
My thoughts now drift to yesterday’s swim of the day. We chose the closest beach a 15 minute drive away. To Norm it was perfect … sandy beach for napping, easy parking, very accessible, shade and reasonably calm warm waters. The cool thing about this beach is we could clearly see the mountains of Albania, and also a city of good size far enough away but still visible. It was also a popular beach which means we didn’t feel so comfortable in both of us going for a swim at the same time. So after my swim 🏊♀️ I decided to go exploring to another beach not far away supposedly.
Now if there were any bored ghosts tagging along with us they surely would be making fun of me ….wearing flip flops and carrying a cellphone. Doesn’t she know she’ll be walking on a rough trail, dipping into water on occasion, practicing her balance as she navigates the protruding rocks. Maybe that was the raucous sound of ghosts laughing and not the waves crashing up on the rocks. I think if there had been a water taxi to Albania I would have taken it, lol!
A glass of wine for me, an offer of gin and tonic … which I declined was most appreciated. In my favourite spot underneath the chimes.
Before long it was time to go to dinner … everyone eats a big meal at lunch here and dinner hours are abbreviated. We chose the oldest taverna in Old Perithia for dinner … not busy at all. The atmosphere was wonderful underneath an old Plane Tree. Grandma was making a phone call with her cell phone … joking and laughing away. But always conscious of photographers it seemed. Then there was the Greek young lady dining there with a dose of impossible endless hiccups. Hope it wasn’t a first date, lol!
Bedtime comes early in the mountains.
"The White House Invited Us In"
I will have to show you a few of my favourite spots (and my favourite TCWB … travel companion with benefits, lol).
Not in a hurry to ever leave. But there is no ‘swim of the day’ up here in the mountains!
So off we went to the coast in a different direction this time and scouted out several beaches. Surprisingly for our swim we were all alone in this tiny picturesque cove. The slight wind had stirred up the water so it was not crystal clear. The water had a slight chill but still very easy to get in. By this time the sun was beginning to dip behind the trees and the beach was quite shady. Why such a late swim you might be thinking?
Well that’s because we chose to dine at The White House. Would you like a table they said…an invitation?
The White House was once the residence of the elder brother, writer, Lawrence Durrell (Larry) and his wife Nancy. Actually it was he who visited Corfu first then suggested his mother come there with the rest of the family.
Still a very beautiful spot!
September 30, 2023 - Corfu (Merchant's House)
"Gettng Older by the Minute in the Old Village of Perithia"
So for the ‘swim of the day’ yesterday, we chose the long sandy beach Marieke suggested. About 35 minute drive each way. This beach was very sandy both in and out of the water, and much quieter! The water was so warm so I just stayed in and swam and swam, while Norm napped and napped. It was Linda’s kind of beach …as the water clarity was more ‘muddled’ in that you couldn’t see the fish if there were any. Although the beach was very clean I still picked up a small amount of various plastic and styrofoam. Eventually it was time to go, last swim of the trip sadly.
We headed home, enjoyed a glass of Corfu wine while admiring the mountain landscape. For dinner we returned to the restaurant of the first night ‘Fornos’. I really enjoyed the playful antics of one of the ‘street dogs’, abandoned just a few weeks ago and taken in by one of the chefs. We watched him play ‘catch me if you can’ zooming around with another much smaller dog in the ‘town square’. So gentle! But unfortunately not so gentle with Marieke’s Daschund dog and a few days ago gave him a nasty bite. He was on his best behavior for me though rolling over and showing me his pearly whites, acting very cute and charming for an 80 pound plus dog. Adorable! On the other hand the cats practically had a fight. Whose fault? The French couple beside us fed one particularly friendly cat then quickly two others came. No cats bothered us. So simple … just say no, pronounced ‘Oh hee’ firmly in Greek, don’t make eye contact after.
I had zucchini balls with tzatziki and half of a saganaki cheese piece while Norm had meatballs followed by a lamb in lemon sauce. We finally met someone from North America. A young American lady, eating there, covered in tattoos. I dunno about this fad … a lot of money spent on body art. What will it look like as they age? Her travels will take her around the world before she returns to her work in Switzerland in a few months.
I can’t believe five days went so quickly here! I feel very grateful for the experience even if I wasn’t a hiker. Many guests are only day guests, enjoying an overnight stay while they trek onwards by foot.
Yes I left a glass of wine unfinished again!
October 01 and 02, 2023 - Corfu Town (Siorra Vittoria)
"Final day to Finally Home!"
Corfu town is stunningly beautiful with its old churches, a castle, narrow cobblestone streets, with sometimes laundry strung between buildings, its ice cream coloured houses and a real Italian Venetian flair. I loved our hotel with its encased garden so convenient for walking. It would have been better to stay an extra night in Corfu Town perhaps … but only if by adding a day to our whole trip.
We were lucky enough to experience Corfu Town on a beautiful sunny day … about 28 degrees or warmer. Still lovely in the evening without long sleeves at a lower elevation.
We chose Bougainvillea Restaurant for our last trip dinner which was only a 5 minute walk from our hotel. A romantic spot tucked away on a town square. We did a quick review of our trip and concluded the Ionian Islands were fabulous! We certainly can see returning with a few adjustments, lots more to see and do or just press the reset button.
So very much to love about the Ionians!!! We have now seen all the major Ionians minus Zakinthos. The only thing is there are definitely more tourists around … I was surprised. A lot of tourists coming for one week holidays, then leaving. Everything was open, nothing yet shut down … might be a different story in a few weeks though.
Luckily for me I got to have a made to order vegetarian moussaka for dinner. Delicious! I know it was freshly made as it was served in a crockery pot, hot and steaming. Their house wine while more expensive was definitely an upgrade to the usual. I couldn’t resist a last glass of red wine. Nor could we resist that last piece of honey soaked baklava!
Our flights were seamless, even got a few minutes lounge time! All was perfect except for our seat kicker in the back (an adult … my seat was not back at all) and then Mr. Sticky Fingers who liked to stretch and occasionally spread his grimy fingers over the top of my TV screen … seriously! Only small aggravating things though. The time went by quickly.
Katrina kindly picked us up at the airport and drove us home! We caught up with her news! And finally we’re home! Ya ya, Ya ya!!! ❤️❤️
Thanks for joining me, my ‘read’ isn’t short and sweet … but hopefully you were entertained, at least a little. What a beautiful different Greek journey to hold in our hearts!
